Is a cable cooker worth it?


I have heard many good things that a cable cooker can do to improve a system, but I am wondering at what point the expense of a cooker is worth it? Alltogether, how long must I burn in my cables, via system play, before they are good and hot as opposed to the expense of buying an Audio Dharma cooker and having near instant results? I don't know where I fall in terms of mid to high end audiophile, but I calculate that by the time I get all the components that I want for my system, minus cables and extras, I am approaching $8500 bucks(only components). So, is a cable cooker worth it for someone like me?
matchstikman

Showing 7 responses by sean

If i was in your situation with your budget, i would not invest in an Audio Dharma. Having said that, i would either rent a machine to burn in all of your cables at one time or see if you can find someone that is trustworthy to burn yours in for you. Owning a cable burner is only beneficial to those folks that go through a lot of cables on a frequent basis. The sonic benefits of "cable burning" are very worthwhile in my opinion. Just don't think that you can burn a cable in overnight or even in a few days. Sean
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Geoffkait and Philefreak basically echo what i said many moons ago. That is, even if you've had your cables in a system for a LONG period of time, burning cables in will still improve their performance to a very noticeable extent.

Having said that, people should take note that not all cable burners are created equally. I haven't tried them all but i have tried a couple. One was not worth the plastic that it was made out of while the other works fabulously.

Besides the various amounts of times that one can "cook" a cable for, there are various methods involved also. As such, two people can have identical hammers, but that doesn't make either of them a carpenter or mean that their use of that tool will give you the same results. Sean
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Drubin: What "cable burner" and cable did you have this experience with ? I'm curious about this as it is not the first time that i've heard of such a situation. I'd like to see if your observations are the same as some of the others that have relayed similar stories to me. If you don't want to discuss this publicly, i would appreciate it if you would contact me via email. Sean
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Abex: After looking at the design for the Hagerman, i would not waste my money on such a device. For that matter, i would not waste my money on most of the other burners on the market either.

A person would be better off looking on Ebay for an old Heathkit, Leader, Eico, etc... Sine / Square wave generator. You can typically pick one of these up for appr $15 - $50 dollars for a complete unit. Using something like this and building some simple terminating loads ( female RCA's that you solder 10,000 ohm resistors across ) that you can plug your interconnects into will get you most everything that you need for an "interconnect burner". To top it off, you can vary the center frequency of the signal using one of these devices, allowing it to work even better than some of the fancy "audiophile approved" burners that cost quite a bit of money.

As far as the type of signal to use, a sine wave or limited bandwidth noise will not work anywhere near as well as a square wave at high amplitude. The reason for this is that a square wave is basically a massively distorted sine wave that is going into "hard clipping". Due to the clipping, harmonics are generated 10 - 15 times above the center frequency. As such, a square wave not only exposes the cable to a higher intensity signal at the center frequency, but a signal that has multiple frequencies rather than just the one that you would get with a sine wave.

This is the reason that "clipping" an amplifier, which is common on high impact or long duration bass notes, tends to blow out mids and tweeters. The added power and longer duration harmonic overtones that are a by-product of the clipped low frequency signals result in a greater amount of signal being fed to the mids and tweeters than what they would normally see or have to cope with. In many cases, this is enough to over-heat the voice coils in the small and fragile drivers and burn them out.

By using a square wave to "cook" the cable, you expose the cable to both a more intense, longer duration signal and a signal that is wider in bandwidth. You also have to get the voltage up to something that is well above what the interconnect would normally see at line level, which is .75 - 2 volts for home audio. As such, look for a cheap but usable sine / square wave generator that can do at least 8 - 12 volts peak to peak and you'll be good. My Mil-spec Wavetek generator will do 36 volts p-p on square waves but also costs quite a bit more than the aforementioned Heath, Leader and Eico models. Sean
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Corona: The use of a signal generator by itself only works for interconnects due to the voltage and current levels that it can generate. For speaker cables, one needs to feed the generator into a power amplifier and use this to drive the cables into terminating dummy loads of appropriate power handling / heat dissipation.

While using lower impedance loads such as those found in most speakers ( 2 - 12 ohms ) will more closely represent what the cable will be connected to, the increased current flow caused by such low impedances generates a LOT of heat in the amp and the dummy loads. Since the voltage is what is doing most of the "break in" here, one can avoid the higher levels of current that low impedances bring with them and still get 90% of the benefits of "burning" the cables. This allows one to devise a burner that is easier to configure, cheaper to build and offers a higher safety factor.

By having the amp feed the speaker cables terminated into a higher resistance, the amp no longer runs near as hot and the current absorbed by the dummy load is reduced. Everything runs cooler and there is less potential for a fire ( power supply and / or output devices failing in the amp or the resistors in the dummy load igniting ). While the maximum voltage that the amp can develop into the higher impedance is reduced, the over-all effects as far as the cables are concerned are near the same. Something along the lines of 24 - 40 ohms seems to work pretty well for this purpose as the current required to pass through the output devices and the dummy loads are reduced by 300% - 500% as compared to a typical 8 ohm load. Granted, a higher level of current flowing through the speaker cables would make this procedure a little more thorough and speed things up, but it also makes things more expensive to set up and do in both a reliable and safe manner.

What i've mentioned here is a "budget DIY" approach to both an interconnect burner and speaker cable burner. One can do both simultaneosly if they pad the high level output of the signal generator feeding the amp while driving the interconnects directly with that higher voltage. Obviously, the speaker cables and interconnects will have to be terminated with their own loads, otherwise "bad things" would happen. If you've gotten this far and are even contemplating doing something like this, you should be able to figure out why you don't want the high level speaker cables terminating into the same load that the low level interconnects are. For those of you that can't figure it out, the amplifier would see the signal generator as part of the terminating load and try feeding the amplfied signal back into it. While it would be severely attenuated due to the terminating resistors that linked the two together, it still wouldn't be something that you would want to do.

As a side note, one could purchase a high powered L pad and terminate it into a low impedance dummy load for use when burning in the speaker cable. This would allow one to vary the impedance that the amplifier / speaker cables terminate into in a manner that allows manual regulation and reasonable power handling. Once again though, the safety factor is reduced, costs are increased and the generation of heat goes way up.

Another tip is to keep the terminating impedance on the interconnects up relatively high i.e. several Kohms at least. As mentioned above, it is not so much the current that breaks in the cabling as it is the higher than normal voltage levels on the interconnects and / or the more consistent voltage levels when doing speaker cables. There have been reports by more than a few people that using devices that present interconnects with an uncharacteristically low terminating impedance has resulted in poorer performance with possible damage being done to cables making use of some type of impedance compensation and or "networking". While one might think that pulling more current would speed things up, it seems as if such is not the case with interconnects and that the voltage is doing most of the work ( as mentioned above ).

Both the interconnects and speaker cables will require some "actual use" playing time to fully settle even after being "burned" using the prescribed methods, but the interconnects should be pretty much "done". The speaker cables will be "close" and give you a good idea of what to expect out of them, but a few more hours of "beating" within the actual system will finish up the task. Sean
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PS... Corona: Were you picking my brain here to see what i came up with or are you not as much of a brain surgeon as you've led us to believe in the past ?

PPS... There is another way to do all of this that works phenomenally well and is far more thorough than what i've mentioned here. I'm not going into that approach as it is more complex, more costly and could be the grounds for me divulging "intellectual properties" for a product that i might end up marketing. The smart "electro-heads" may have already figured out what i'm talking about without going into further details : )
Abex: varied test tones will work better than music since music is not steady state in duration nor of consistent amplitude. Sean
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Gbmcleod: There are differences in various "cable burners". I've read / communicated with a few people that have had poor experiences with specific models and been happy with others. If in doubt about a specific combo, consult the manufacturer and / or ask questions here or on AA. Sean
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