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Help / Comments - New Construction - Sort of...

Thanks for taking the time to read this if you are... It is a bit bittersweet for me, but the wife and I have put an offer in on a new home and it has been accepted. It is a bit sad after years of hard work into our current home, however situations with her business really dictate we move and build custom.

Now with the sweet of the bittersweet... The "better half" has also allowed me to use the "bonus room" as my dedicated listening room. It measures roughly 15'8" x 21'9" with a ceiling height of 9'. I have made some "minor" requests to the builder at this time. There is to be a "coffered ceiling" which consists of 6" wide by 8" deep beams... square pattern to consist of nine roughly 5'x7' rectangles. I am hoping this will help with diffusion. I have also requested the entire room be hung with double layers of sheetrock. The room is located on the second floor. Also to have 5 dedicated 20 amp lines ran to the room. On the short wall (behind my listening position) is the "chute" for the chimney from the greatroom below. This is approx 18" deep by 3 feet wide. I have made arrangements for cabinets (waist high) and bookshelves to the ceiling (for vinyl) to flank either side of the chimney chute. Only other option at this point was a solid door as well. I am planning on providing the cryo'd romex and duplex' and plan to have the breakers all on the same leg at the top of the box...

All else is yet to be determined. I have a wife that does not want *any* type of "tacky" sonic correction stuff anywhere... the best I have gotten so far is my Eighth Nerve room pack up...

So any suggestions, must do's... let me know. I am not certain I want double drywall, but was told that the stiffer the wall, the better the bass, and livlier the room, as well as help to isolate the sound.

At this point, we just signed the contract this evening, thus all *could be* changed... however budget is about zip, zero, zilch, nada, you get the idea... thus I worked the above into the room with the builder at this point. However, they estimate it will be 6 to 7 months until closing so if there ARE any "MUST DO" suggestions (afraid there will be many...) I do have time to react.

All help is greatly appreciated. My system link has all my gear, minus my TT that is on the way... Nottingham Spacedeck with Ace Space Arm, ZYX Airy3-S-SB with the Whest phono stage...
audiofankj

Showing 5 responses by tburn

tburn
35 posts
 
Being on the second floor, I would give some special consideration to the rigidity of the floor system. This can be greatly enhanced by doubling up all the floor joists under this room - we're talking an extra few hundred bucks for lumber. In addition, the best scenario would also include T&G 3/4" plywood, glued and screwed (they'll probably be using nailers, so just go back on your own and screw it down w/ one foot spacing. The builder will probably insist this is all overkill, but it makes a substantial difference in the strengt of the floor, and can be accomplished for the price of a cheap "tweak" (and this is the only logical time to do it). Perhaps someone will suggest the best means (materials) for sound isolation to the lower level. Have fun, and good luck ... Tom
tburn
35 posts
 
Hi Audiofankj - in response to your question concerning the floor, IMO it would be most beneficial to double the floor joists, especially considering the fact that you use an analog source in your system. Without looking at the framing blueprints nor knowing what length of span is required, I would assume typical construction methods would entail using 2X10 joist lumber (and dependent on local building codes, the builder may be able to get away w/ using 2X8's). This, of course, is quite sufficient to carry normal second floor loads, but will still possess a certain amount of "flex". Again, doubling the joists will greatly strengthen the floor system, and while you're at it, spike the hell out of the doubled pairs (and to really get serious, lay some construction adhesive between the pairs before nailing) You are essentially forming "built-up" beams by doing all this labor. And timed right, you and some buddies could do this on a weekend (the contractor would need to know so as not to apply the decking before you got to it). As an aside, but probably prohibitive if working within a tight budget, is the availability of new types of trussed or plywood I-beam joist systems which could also be considered (you'd need to consult an architect on this subject).

Concerning the plywood, it pretty much depends on what the finished flooring will be, and how they typically do the work in your area. I would want a finished floor no less than one to one and a quarter inch minimum thickness. For example, if you go with a wood floor, this would equal approx. one and one-half inches finished. And, again, using construction adhesive on top of the joists before the subfloor plywood is layed will be of benefit.

Sorry - don't really know what level of experience/knowledge
you have with constuction techniques - kinda hard to know how to discuss here. If interested, just drop an email and we can discuss this ad nauseum. I was "complaining" to another AudiogoNer just recently that most of my forum participation is of the 'asking for help' variety, but this is one area that I can offer some suggestions. Regards ...Tom
tburn
35 posts
 
Just a heads up, Kirk - sent ya an email ... Tom
tburn
35 posts
 
Hello Kirk - I concur w/ Jim - I simply wouldn't accept any subflooring (plywood) less than 3/4", and I would further stipulate 1/4" (preferrably 3/8") underlayment before laying carpet. I will simply state - a finished floor thickness of only 5/8" inch would be a joke! And I also agree, since apparently the subfloor will not be all that beefed up, to specify 16" on centers for the I-joists. To check this, find the midpoint of the top flange of any joist (width/2) and place a mark - then do the same on the neighboring joist. Measure the distance between these two marks - that will tell you the on center (o.c.) spacing of the I-joists. Jim was also correct to recommend solid blocking between the joists. I did a quick read about wood I-joists on the net, and from what I gathered, they will still exhibit flexing, but this can be reduced with blocking. A lot of this depends on your builder - is he a hands on carpenter, leading the crew, or does he drive around to his sites all day, in a new pickup and carrying a briefcase. IMHO, the latter variety will cut every corner imaginable to add to his bottom line. 'Nuf said.
And to reiterate one last time, insist on construction glue being applied on top of the joist before the plywood is layed. Unless you are present during this phase, there is no way of knowing if this was indeed done, other than to find the empty "tubes" laying in the trash pile later. You need to tell the builder you expect to see these. Quite simply, there is either the right way or wrong way to frame a house. Again, best of luck ... Tom
tburn
35 posts
 
Hi Kirk - good deal - sounds like you're on your way! Best of luck with the new home, and of course, the listening room. Now, if I could just get this hum to go away (heheh) ... Tom
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