Dedicated Line Advise

But rodman, here in the Northeast we need to run the furnace.

I just noticed that the refrigerator is on the right, furnace on left. Should I keep line 1 in place on left and add line 2 to right side, same phase?
How important is it to have all lines on same side?

My noise floor is currently very low with Blue Circle PC.

When you say use the same phase, does that mean phase = leg. Use the same leg?

I see that audio AC line 1 is installed on left side of circuit box, which is now full. As long as he puts line 2 on the right side of box, same phase, then everything is cool. Is that correct?

Also, previous owner installed 220v furnace on left side and 220v dryer on right side. Am I in good shape for this install? Thanks.

Great info, many thanks. There is adaquate room on the right side of the box.
Is this the best way to proceed...
move line 1 to right side, add line 2 to right side (same phase). This would move the audio AC lines away from the furnace breaker on the left.
Now there would also be room for additional lines.

Your thoughts?

willie, I appreciate your time.
First, all electrical is modern and up to code.

Second, I have a different circuit box, it's for a small row home and the layout is like this...
BANK "A"             BANK "B"
Switch #               Switch #     
1                A             2
3                B             4
5                A             6
7                B             8
9                A            10
.... up to # 20

**I found a diagram of my box online and this is what was posted.
-------------------------------------------------------

#1, 3 are a "linked switch PAIR" for furnace.
#2, 4 are linked and marked as MAIN DISCONNECT.
and BTW, the electrician placed my audio line in #5.

Are you familiar with this type of box?

Al, always appreciate when you participate. Thanks for reminding me of that thread. Early on in this hobby I only had one line installed since I had low power devices; live and learn.

There's great info that you've provided me and have downloaded it. Through our conversations, you know about the atypical grounding design of my amp and I'm glad you alerted me to possible unpredictable results. (and I had a lengthy conversation with Jensen; thanks).

But adding one or more dedicated lines is still the plan.

Many thanks, williewonka.
You've provided valuable information.

russe41,
So, then the proper way to wire 2 dedicated lines is to have them both on the same leg, yes?
In my case, breaker #1 and 2 are on the same leg. Am I correct?

BANK "A"           BANK "B"
Switch #               Switch #    
1               A             2
3               B             4
5               A             6
7               B             8
9               A           10
.... up to # 20

Willie and mesch,
  I’ve got the concept now. It will take some work moving old breakers, since the refrigerator and the dryer are near the bottom at #16 and 18.
Many thanks.

It seems that my circuit box is balanced...
   Left                        Right
- furnace,              - refrigerator 15amp   
  30amp linked.     - light duty 15a
- A/C 20amp         - dryer, 30amp, linked
- light duty 15a      
                              
But, the original electrician did a poor layout of the breakers for my purposes. The only open area for expansion is in the middle of the box. High current breakers are at the top and the bottom.

Peter, I have a quick story about my respect for electricity. I'm not an EE or electrician, but I did hold a 2nd Class FCC license and worked as an audio engineer.
On my first remote, we were going to tie-in the truck to the venue (an old theater), so I went with the Chief Engineer to the basement and located the circuit boxes. He handed me a heavy length of wood and said that if he started to get electrocuted, I was to knock his body away from the wiring.

Thanks for the detailed info, minor1. My box has the Main Disconnect linked on #2 and 4, so it's very convenient.
I'm sure I could move a breaker myself, although each wire may only be cut to length.

 It's a very poor layout of my household appliances. Even though the load is balanced, there are some high-current breakers in the middle, then blanks and low current, then more appliances at the bottom). 
If it's only an hour labor charge, I'm fine with that. Thanks.

@imjustdave,
I own a small rowhome and have a 12' x 16' listening room (living room). I wouldn't be running anything that required a 220V line.
Currently my amp is 300w/8 ohms, 600w into 4 ohms and if I were to change my amp to monoblocks, they would be tubes, so 120V is fine.
Thanks.

  @imjustdave, I appreciate your input.
I'm adding an additional line so that the power amp can be isolated and have its own breaker.

I am aware that if I doubled the voltage to 240V, the current draw from my system would be less. I just don't think it's necessary with my small system and small room. And to be honest, I'd like to keep the costs down, given that I will be asking the electrician to rearrange the breakers in the circuit box for optimal placement of the audio lines.

As far as the cost of my electric bill, I don't remember noticing an increase after I added my high power amp which is powered up 24/7. It's SS and probably doesn't draw much current at idle.