I think you are looking in the wrong direction. A little bit of DC leakage is not going to blow fuses and drivers in a speaker that is designed to handle 100's of watts of power. At least I assume a $50K speaker that doesn't have a stated maximum power can handle any reasonable amount of power. The likely culprit is you listening at extremely high volume levels. Since you don't mention what you are listening to and at what volume levels that is just a guess, but much more likely scenario than the amps leaking a bit of DC
DC leakage from power amps
I am hoping to get some advice on how to check for dc leakage from my power amps. I have a pair of Bryston 28B SST2 mono blocks, powering a pair of Wilson Maxx2's. The Wilsons drivers are protected by resistors, acting as fuses. I have been blowing quite a few of the mid driver resistors, valued at 5.8 ohms. Last night I lost another mid resistor cluster on my left channel ( there are 4 wired in a series/parallel configuration), and what I thought was a tweeter resistor, but upon replacing that single resistor (4.2 ohm) with a fresh one, still no tweeter. I was fed up, and did not investigate further, but fear that I may have a dead tweeter, or worse, crossover issues. I am no tech expert, but am concerned that I may have DC leakage from my Brystons. I live about a 4 hour round trip to the Bryston facilty in Peterborough Ontario, and have lots of warranty left, but don't want to pack up the beasts and have them inspected if I can confirm on my own, if there is a DC issue. How do I go about checking the amps at home, and confidently knowing if there are amp issues, or not. If the amps are faulty, I will return them for repairs, but would like to eliminate/confirm the issue at home. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Showing 4 responses by herman
Does your meter have a max hold function? If so you could get an idea of what kind of peaks you are hitting. With a monster amp and great speakers you may be be playing much louder than you realize according to Stereophile your problem may be the impedance dip causing a current surge, especially since your amps look like they are capable of arc welding able to deliver 20 amps into 4 ohms "The speaker's impedance (fig.1) reveals it to be a demanding load for the partnering amplifier, with a value ranging from 4 to 6 ohms for most of the audioband and dropping to a minimum of 2.25 ohms at 240Hz. The combination of 3.8 ohms and a 33.4º capacitive phase angle at 162Hz, a frequency where music has considerable energy, will also demand an amplifier that can source a good amount of current, as MF found in his auditioning." Read more at https://www.stereophile.com/content/wilson-audio-specialties-maxx2-loudspeaker-measurements#qh7WDRg2... |
I would hook to the output of the amps and play something you typically listen to at what you would consider a moderate to slightly loud volume level and see what your peak hold AC meter captures. Power is voltage squared divide by impedance so if you assume you are at the dip of 3 ohms the calculation is simple. if you get 20V then you have 100W (20 times 20 = 400 divided by = 133W) if you get 30V you have 300W 40V = 533W etc bear in mind your meter probably measures RMS voltage so the actual peak is appreciably higher turn it up until it is loud. You may be surprised how much power you are pumping into the speakers that should give you an idea of where you stand. Have you contacted Wilson to see what they think? |
hey Ralph, I agree about the DC, but he has monoblocks that will do 1800 watts into 4 ohms so I don't think bigger amps is the answer Could it be the line sags so low they clip? Seems like the lights would dim if that happens but never seen that so don't know. my theory is it is playing much louder than he realizes |