custom Crossover building service??

I did not to want screw up the time arrival balance of the 5 drivers in my Dunlavy SC4's. I elected to change the mechanical and material makeup of the crossover only, all the values remained the same even as the crossover grew out of the enclosure and into its own separate chassis. The crossover components, chassis, and all ten, 10 ga. Sonoran cables wired directly to each driver weigh in at over 65 lbs each. The chassis is of 2024 aircraft aluminium, and of course direct coupled using Audiopoints.All interior walls of the Dunlavy speaker cabinet have been coated with Cascade VBloc, a water soluble product that is drawn into and seals the wood. All hardware was replaced with brass..nonferrous fasteners. The speaker cabinet resides on a Sistrum SP101 platform and leveled left to right as well as verticaly to achieve proper wavelaunch and arrival at the listening position. Tom

I neglected to also give AuriCaps my recommendation in terms of capacitors.

Thanks again guys. What about using a 2-way adjustable electronic crossover instead? I already have the amps to do it.

the speaker is a 2-way & has 2 8-inch drivers and a tweeter.
I'd run the crossovers high pass section to an amp then straight to the tweeter. run the low pass section to an amp then to the woofers. Would I hook both woofers up the same binding posts or run the wire to 1 woofer then branch off to the next? Right now both woofers are hooked up to the same leads on the speaker's passive Xover boards. the amps an crossover both have gain controls.

Draggcj...Connecting a tweeter up directly to a power amp is risky. Turnon and turnoff transients, and other disturbances with LF content can easily toast a tweeter.

The mid/tweeter crossover (typically in the range 1500-2500 Hz) is best done using a passive circuit. The necessary inductor and capacitor values are reasonably cheap, even for good quality parts. Electronic crossovers are superior for lower frequencies, and almost essential for a subwoofer.

I agree, tweeters can fry pretty easily.

If you want to do it simply, try a capacitor in series with the tweeter. This will give all the protection you need. However, depending on the sensitivity of the tweeter as compared to your woofer, you may have to pad it down with a resistor, or two in an L Pad arrangement.