Anybody else using a distributed array sub system?


     I was just about to respond to zardozmike's forum post titled 'subwoofers' about suggestions for subs for Magnepan MGIII speakers but decided a new post might be more useful for him and others.  I have Magnepan 2.7QR speakers and posted a similar question about a year ago.  After reading his thread, I realized he was getting about the same responses I had received.  All were very good responses but I thought a new thread detailing my effective solution may be more relevant and attract responses from other users of a distributed array sub system.    


     About a year ago I purchased the Audio Kinesis DEBRA (Distributed-Eq Bass Reflex Array) sub system from James Romeyn Music and Audio in Utah. Here's a link describing the system:


http://jamesromeyn.com/old-pages/home-audio-gear/dsa-1-0-distributed-subwoofer-array-5-pieces-4k-usd...

 

       This system is expensive at $2,990 but well worth the investment.  I rationalized the price by noting it's about the same as a pair of very good regular subs.


     The performance of this system in my 23' x 14' living room is excellent.  The bass can be fast, tight and tuneful for music or loud and impactful for music and home theater.  The subs seem to disappear since there are no audible clues to their locations; the bass is very well integrated into the music and movies. From my personal experience, I'm not convinced of the reality of stereo bass but was willing to give it a try.    I was originally thinking of buying 2 high quality subs such as Rhythmik, SVS, JL, Martin/Logan, Vandersteen or REL.  I was skeptical of the DEBRA system at first but, after reading a lot of research about multiple sub systems on the internet, I decided to give it a try and I'm now very thankful that I did. 


     Because it is such an ideal system for me, and because I think it would work well in almost any room or system, I want to go into more detail about the system, its setup and the theory behind it. I have no affiliation with the company but will admit, after considerable phone and email time with the dealer, that I now consider James Romeyn a friend of mine but don't know if he feels likewise.

     The system consists of the following:

A dedicated Dayton Audio mono class A/B amp rated at 950 watts @ 4 ohms with dual A&B spkr output terminals.

4 67lb. bass-reflex  subs that measure a relatively small 23.75" H x 14.5" W x 10.375" D.

Each sub is ported on the bottom, supported by 3 spiked cones and contains a single 10" 4 ohm driver. The subs are designed to be facing, and within 2" of, the room walls.

     The setup procedure is:

Sub#1 is hooked up and placed on its back  (driver facing the ceiling) at the normal listening position.  Music is played that has good and repetitive bass.

Walk around the edges of the room and determine exactly where the bass sounds best to you.

Attach the 3 spiked footers to Sub#1 and position it upright facing the nearest wall to the spot you determined the bass sounded best.

Sub#2 is hooked up and placed on its back at the primary listening position. With sub 1 & 2 playing, continue walking around the edges of your room and determine again where the bass sounds best to you.

Attach the 3 spiked footers to Sub#2 and position it upright facing the nearest wall to the spot you determined the bass sounded best.

Repeat this procedure for sub 3 & 4.

Small positioning adjustments may need to be made for each sub due to avoiding furniture and the WAF. 

Once completed, final sub hook up is done in parallel:

Attach a single wire from the amp's speaker A's pos. output terminal and to Sub#1's pos. input terminal.

Attach a single wire from the amp's speaker A's neg. output terminal and to Sub#2's neg. input terminal.

Attach a single wire from Sub#1's neg. input terminal to Sub#2's pos. input terminal.

Attach Sub 3 & 4 using this parallel method on the amp's speaker B's output terminals.

I ordered single, high quality and low gauge speaker wire along with the sub system for a very reasonable price. Once the ideal locations for the subs was determined, I drilled holes in my room's floor to the crawl space below, and was able to hide the connecting wires. 

     I'm definitely not an expert on subs or room acoustics but, from my reading, here is how I understand the theory behind the distributed array sub systems:


The lower the frequency the longer the sound wave produced, or launched,  into a room. 

Since these waves can be even longer than the actual dimensions in many rooms, these low frequency waves bounce off room surfaces and the music may dictate subsequent bass waves being launched into this acoustic environment. These initial waves, their reflections and subsequent bass waves inevitably collide and cause 'standing waves'.

Areas in the room where sound waves meet can make the bass sound under emphasized, over emphasized or even totally missing (nulls caused by wave cancelation).

When one sub is launching low frequency waves from 1 specific location, areas in a specific room where bass response is not accurate will be numerous and predictable based on sub location and room dimensions.

Adding a 2nd sub to the room will decrease standing waves and increase bass accuracy and bass dispersion.

According to scientific studies I read, standing waves are reduced, and bass accuracy and dispersion increased, as more subs are used in a given room.  Their experiments utilized more subs than anyone would even consider for home use. They basically concluded that the more subs in a room, the fewer standing waves are perceived and the better the bass quality and bass dispersion results.

However, they determined that most of the benefits are gained with the use of 4 subs, with only minimal and incremental gains in performance attained through additional subs.  Due to practical room considerations, the researchers recommended 4 subs for an effective distributed array bass system.


     So that's the equipment, set-up and the theory behind the DEBRA system and I can personally attest to its effectiveness in my room.  I have 6 listening/viewing positions in my combination music and ht system in my living room.  Bass response is equally good at all 6 positions without the use of acoustic devices (no absorbing or diffusing panels or bass traps) and without any electronic  equalization (room analysis/correction equipment, software or eq).  I should mention I've never had my system/room analyzed using a mike and software.  From my purely subjective perspective, however, I'm confident the results would be good since I spent hours on the setup and critical listening from all six listening positions in my room.  I would suggest this type of sub system as a viable alternative for anyone considering investing in one or more quality subs.  The system is rated clean at 113 decibels at 20 hz.  I've often heard and felt it go much lower.  It feels and sounds clean and right but I can't verify the decibels or lack of distortion.


Sorry this turned out so long and windy,

  Tim

Also, my system photos are old but I'll try to update them showing my current system (with the subs and new electronics) soon.



     


  

128x128noble100

Showing 4 responses by dcbingaman

I'm using Duke's Swarm system with five subwoofers and two Vandersteen Quatro Woods which have built in subs of their own.  In my previous set-up I used a single Vandersteen V2W sub with the Quatros.  I use a Meridian G68XXD with MRC room correction below 250 hz.  The previous system required 16 filters between the Vandersteen speakers, the V2W sub and the Vandersteen center and surround speakers (ITU spec. 5.1 set-up).  The Swarm setup required only 2 filters, and only for the two Vandersteen surround speakers (VSM-1s), which are close to the rear ceiling / wall corners.  The room, wherever you set the calibration mic, is very flat and uniform.  

The sound, particularly with large-scale symphony music, is utterly realistic, with the acoustics of the hall the recording comes from.  (I regularly attend the St. Louis Symphony Orchestra classical series, so I know what it should sound like.). My previous set-up (single sub) sounded like a very good hi-fi system in my medium size room.

Anyone who dismisses these multi-sub systems doesn't understand the acoustics of small rooms, and is really missing something special.  As added bonus, the power response of the swarm and similar systems is uncanny.  You really haven't heard "bass slam" until you experience one of thes set-ups.

Tim, the basic Swarm system comes with four subwoofer speakers, ported 10" drivers in a 1.6 cu. ft. box.  I had a cut out in the front wall that my V2W fit in that was too short for Duke's subs, so he made a 5th one for me to fit that space.  Same driver and Thiele-Small alignment but with a fatter and shorter box.  I use the Swarm Dayton rack amp in series/parallel for the four 4 ohm subs in the room, and a 300W BASH plate amp for the 5th one.  They are all driven from the LFE output from the Meridian which is split between the processor and the amps.

The Quatros are run full range and uses two 8" drivers and an internal 250W amp.  I run the Quatro analog EQ flat.  The center channel, a VCC-5, is crossed over at 60 Hz and the VSM-1 surrounds are crossed over at 80 Hz.  I usually use Meridian's Trifield DSP which uses the L, R, C and LFE for stereo recordings, and discrete for 5.1 recordings.

Hi, Tim.  To be honest with you, I can't tell the difference.  In my opinion, a Class D plate amp is as good as a decent Class A/B amp for this application.  TIM and all the other issues Class D amps have been associated with are really not that audible at 100 Hz and lower.  As you point out, the newer Class D amps are pretty good across the whole audio band.  BTW, Duke's subwoofers are also pretty efficient, especially when you use 4 or more of them in parallel.

The Vandersteen Quatros, 5CT's and 7's all use Class B amps for their bass drivers for efficiency. Crossover distortion is really not an issue at the frequencies they are used.  

The 300W BASH plate amp has worked well, but I found I couldn't just put it in the cabinet - the pressure from the driver rattled all the components around !  I had to put it in a separate vented enclosure which I mounted on the outside of Duke's cabinet.

The driver faces outward into the room, and the port faces the floor.

Guys, I'm not sure what is behind the numbering of Richard's speakers, but he is pretty deliberate in everything he does.  The 4 was a bigger 3 with a separately powered subwoofer system - a predecessor to the 5.  It must not have been a completely successful design, because it was only produced for a couple years.  They still turn up on eBay, however.

The Quatro is a newer design than the 5A and has a very slim cabinet compared to everything RV designed before - generally assumed to be better for acoustic diffraction.  The 7 looks like a Quatro on steroids to my eyes.  The Treo is essentially a 3 in a Quatro cabinet, but with a small woofer.  In any case, the three latest Vandersteen cabinets are all very slim and very similar in appearance.

One difference from the old days is that Richard now sells speakers all over the world.  A rumor I heard is than the Chinese in particular are very superstitious about numerology.  I think Richard is avoiding certain numbers to prevent the Chinese from avoiding, (or burning incense around), his speakers.