Amplifier suggestions please

Parasound has excellent clean midrange, decent bass. However, the highs are somewhat dry. A BLUE fuse at the mains will probably help this.

For what it’s worth, Parasound A21+ has 1.3 kVA transformer.

The ATI AT6002 has 2 x 900VA = 1.8 kVA transformer total power.

I don’t know what the Rotel RB-1590 transformer size is, but I suspect that it’s close to the ATI.

As far as sound, both Parasound and Rotel are on the warm side of neutral. The ATI amp would be totally neutral and could even slant towards the revealing sound.

@samac  - by the way, your URL to the rotel page in Music Direct is malformed.

On the topic of Rotel, the Rotel RB-1590 is an absolutely excellent amp!  It's not a fully balanced/differential amp circuit (if that matters to you), but it's got an excellent sound.  It has a slightly warm texture to the sound, but very smooth and very good resolution. 

I've actually got a ton of experience with all generations of Emotiva amps.  I'm not pushing emotive.  It can be a great platform to modify/upgrade, but the stock amps can be bright.  The Gen 3 is not recommended because of switching power supply. 

That being said, those smaller 1L monoblocks do have some drawbacks.  They are indeed just a little weak on bass because they use a smaller 450VA transformer.  If you want bass, you want to look for an amp that has a big transformer and big power supply.

As far as the highs being rolled off, I bet your running this amp in "Class A" mode.  That mode helps reduce some of the bright/harsh stock sound, but it also softens the high frequency response.  It's a drawback on this particular amp.

Klaus over at Odyssey audio uses really small transformers in his amps (even the Kismet monoblock).  They are small 400VA transformers.  For upgrade, he just stacks them.  800VA is still not a lot.  So if you want big powerful full bass, I would not choose an Odyssey amp.

I wouldn't go for a pair of Vidar's either.  While you can bridge them to make a monoblock, they really don't do well at the lower impedances.  Actually, you should never really buy a stereo amp to bridge/monoblock them.  They aren't designed for that purpose.  I don't think the Vidar's are actually powerhouses either.

You could look at an ATI amplifier AT4002 amp.  They are true fully balanced amp designs.  For the AT4002 stereo 2 channel amp, each amp board has it's own transformer, so it's a true dual-mono (essentially two true monoblocks built into the same case).  I don't know how they will do on bass.  The transformers look larger than the 1L transformers, but I can't tell.  The retail for AT4002 is $2695.

The step up is the ATI AT6002.  These have much larger 900VA transformers (still not huge, but much better than what you have been using).  It's a more powerfully 300 watts, but it's likely out of your budget at $3595 retail.

The Van Alstine monoblocks might work, but they are getting expensive and I don't know their transformer size.  You might reach out to them and ask.

Some additional comments. Below is link explaining what I did to Emotiva Gen 3 DR2 amps, which helped but still did not provide super deep strong bass (example of switching power supply):

https://audiogon.com/listings/lis9gcd5-emotiva-xpa-dr2-2-channel-amp-massively-modified-solid-state

Moving on, the only time you really want a low gain setting on an amplifier is if you have super extremely efficient speakers (I’m talking 99-100db efficiency, such as something like Tekton Double Impacts). What happens is that these speakers are so damn efficient that the background hiss that is present in all gain circuits is radically amplified and you have this annoying background hiss on whatever you listen to. The fix for this is a low gain setting on your amp.

Since your Phil 3 speakers are actually a rather low 85db efficiency, you want a normal gain amp (even one that tilts towards a higher gain such as 32db gain).

You do realize that cabling is available which has both the XLR on one end and RCA on the other, which does in fact exhibit the same benefits as the "XLR only ", cabling right?

While cabling does exist with this configuration, this really isn't the right way to do it.  Converting XLR to RCA and vice-versa really needs a signal transformer (such as those available from Jensen) or a conversion circuit with an op amp (not optimal at all). 

XLR circuits that don't have a receiving end for the negative polarity can sometimes run hot or not optimum if it doesn't have a "load" on that signal pin.

I'm not saying this configuration won't work, but it is generally not recommended.

----

And another note.  Trying to turn the opinion of the OP because you have stuff to sell is not completely un-biased.