More questions about dedicated lines


We are moving to a new house built in 2007  and I am fortunate enough to be able to move a wall to create a room with golden ratios. I will need to run some new electric and it gives me the opportunity to run dedicated lines.  I have spent countless hours rummaging through the 7k discussions on this topic and have a decent idea of what is needed.  My plans are to have four runs of Romex 10/2, one each for each monoblock VAC signature 200's, my digital, and my Audiokinesis swarm which has not be set up yet.  I estimate the runs to be conservatively 45 feet including up and down distances. All runs will be of equal length ending in SR  outlets. They will be separate from each other and all other lines and no metal staples will be used.  When I told him I my goal was to have the best sound he offered a suggestion that I hadn't come across in my electrical education here on the gon.  He suggested placing what sounded like a commercial power regenerator with a large battery bank as the first step out of the breaker box and running lines from this.  The other options were to run from a preexisting sub panel that has the pool pump and a few lights on it, but nothing else.  Third is straight out the breaker box.  He wanted to put the runs closest to the utility line in, stating that there will be less noise upstream than downstream, but this puts these lines next to a big double breaker (cant' remember what it is but is sure to be noisey).  He understands that I want all lines on the same phase, or line,leg.  My questions are: Of the three options, which would be best?  Is there anything else needed to minimize the risk of ground loop hum if I use separate hot, return, and gound for each line and not share ground neutrals and keep all lines separated from themselves and other lines.  If going through a subpanel with little on it, how do I manage to keep all runs on the same phase without unbalancing the breaker? A third tangential question-Is it best to use metal or plastic housing boxes for the receptacle? The question of durability of the plastic fatiguing and breaking following repeated plugging and unplugging has been mentioned but I didn't see an answer.  Finally, a huge thank you to jea and almarg for their voluminous responses in all the prior electrical discussions-I got an education.  Sadly, I still don't speak electricalese.
orthomead
Regarding option #2, which hasn't gotten a lot of support, there may be a way to improve.  It is called a "soft start" for motors, mostly used on A/C units, but I also found the "EasyStart 364" which might work for a pool pump.  I'm NOT an electrician, so don't just grab one and slap it on without consulting the qualified electrician.  I would be interested to hear his opinion.  I can say that I have the "soft start" for both my A/C units, mostly installed just to avoid that chance of both starting simultaneously.  The only drawback is they are IMHO a bit expensive.  It is also supposed to help the lifespan of the motor, but I'm not sure if that is reaching a bit or not.
If you really wanted to do something drastic, you could take the pool pump off-grid with a solar pool pump, but of course that is running up into a more major investment, but in the long-run might prove to be economically viable.  It would run even during a power outage, of course only during the day, but you wouldn't have to worry about the pool turning green if power is out for several days.
Miller,


You are not the only one who has implemented things. Are you even reading the posts?
@ millercarbon


read pages 11 thru 13.
https://www.anixter.com/content/dam/Images/Logos/Supplier-Logos/Middle-Atlantic/PowerPaper.pdf


read pages 31 thru 35
https://centralindianaaes.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/indy-aes-2012-seminar-w-notes-v1-0.pdf

FWIW, I used 10-2 w/grd NM sheathed cable for the two 20 amp dedicated branch circuits for my 2ch audio system. Each cable is 75ft long......
My system is dead quiet...

Job layout and the wiring method used makes the difference.
.
I think I'm getting somewhere here thanks to y'all.  Jim, the PowerPaper you referenced indicated that there were two sheathing options-aluminum or steel and the article further references the aluminum sheathed hospital grade cable.  Of these 3 options, what would you currently choose? Are all your components plugged directly into the wall or do you use a power strip and/or conditioner/regenerator?

Tribbles-I'm looking to have good sound and stay married.  My wife has given me a lot of leeway and I will be in the doghouse if I suggest we need to redo the pool electrical so my room will be better!  Thanks for an outside the box thought, though.
djones-my electrician had several thoughts and I'm trying to decide which will be best.  He didn't come out with a concrete plan and besides, all the prior postings I reviewed seemed conclusive that less than optimal outcomes are likely without the audiophile's input.