Thank you so much Kirkus for taking the time to explain that. Very helpful, and I'm sure people will continue to use that info for years to come when googling for help on old McIntosh meters!
if it makes any difference here is some other info:
-All lights work EXCEPT the meters. They were brightly illuminated prior to my "repair"
-The powergaurd red light comes on for the right channel if I turn the meter knob to "watts" or "Hold" (and its brighter when turned to the "hold" position. The light is not illuminated on "0db, -10db, -20db"
-No sound from either channel except an occasional crackle or whisper like it's trying to play but the signal isn't making it..., at all levels of gain, one speak off the other on, etc. etc, for all combinations of volume and channels.
-one positive note, the METERS MOVE! Although they never hit above -20watts, they were atleast flicking a tiny bit and were synchronized. It didn't seem to effect them when i adjusted the db/wattage dials on the meter board though.
does this new information help narrow down the source further? I pulled both boards and there is no physical evidence of a short, even on the capacitor I thought was smoking. Which it only did for 5 seconds the first time I started it up, never since.
thanks again for your help! If pics would help let me know and I'll snap a few of whatever you need.
if it makes any difference here is some other info:
-All lights work EXCEPT the meters. They were brightly illuminated prior to my "repair"
-The powergaurd red light comes on for the right channel if I turn the meter knob to "watts" or "Hold" (and its brighter when turned to the "hold" position. The light is not illuminated on "0db, -10db, -20db"
-No sound from either channel except an occasional crackle or whisper like it's trying to play but the signal isn't making it..., at all levels of gain, one speak off the other on, etc. etc, for all combinations of volume and channels.
-one positive note, the METERS MOVE! Although they never hit above -20watts, they were atleast flicking a tiny bit and were synchronized. It didn't seem to effect them when i adjusted the db/wattage dials on the meter board though.
does this new information help narrow down the source further? I pulled both boards and there is no physical evidence of a short, even on the capacitor I thought was smoking. Which it only did for 5 seconds the first time I started it up, never since.
thanks again for your help! If pics would help let me know and I'll snap a few of whatever you need.