Smoked um' MC275 GG, and Deluxe 300 VTL


A Pos cable dropped on the Neg, cable, la-te-da, High pitched sound, I'm running now full steam, now
a 20 amp circuit breaker popped, and you could still hear the sizzling. The 120 maintenance/ conditioners
continued to drain at the signal tube coupling caps, literally burnt the wire lead in half..
What the heck happened?? Holy cow, expensive burnt a SILVER trace a 1/4 wide, SILVER!!! 
Who is the valve amp expert around, here? VTLs MC275s,

Any help is much appreciated

Regards

The OldHvyMec
oldhvymec
Take a deep breath and try posting again what actually happened? I cannot figure it out from your post. Sounds awful though.
Well pretty simple, a pos lead from a speaker cable pulled out and dropped onto a neg lead of the bass section. It was not being used BUT it was plugged onto a pair of class d NC500 amps, NOT POWERED UP.
I was in the middle of swapping cables and amps, from the MC275, to the VTL. I was playing the MC275, but really not paying attention. Powered down, swapped amps, and that's when I heard the High Pitched sound.  Breaker blew, I could hear, a sizzle inside the right side MB. I flipped it, UNPLUGGED still sizzling. Took the bottom off, the coupling cap for the signal tube was burnt in half. the trace was arcing across to another trace. I lightbulbed it with a 40 watt light. and the sizzle stopped.

EVERY cap in that amp was SUPER charged, I'd never seen that. I've had those things forever. Worked on them through the years. Just a killer amp.  I saw the lead on the speaker HANGING.  I tidied up the friggin' mess shrink tubed the terminal ends and, moved the Mac back in. I fired it up, no right channel.  So it had fallen BEFORE the swap, but I wasn't paying attention. So it was gone before I unhooked. I just wasn't there when it jerked out, AS I'M LOOKING AT MY JACK RUSSEL, wagging her tail, with the ball, she recovered, from where? YUP right back there. 

BAD DAD, NOT DOG. Geeeez ma neez. That dog NEVER goes around my stereo gear, dog off from birth.  Well still my fault, I should have used Y spades or eyelets for terminal ends. I used twist locks, MISTAKE!
sound different too... 

So two down, and not a blown fuse anywhere, and I have NOT checked the valves, none were red plating, crazy friggin' things. Just need to calm down, get the ol Hickok 539 out.. I just got a real bad feeling, it's not a valve.. HTF it's not a signal transformer. Puff Puff Pass, dang!!!!

Thanks, if you got any ideas, I'll dig out a schemo, been a while on that VTL 5-6 years. The Mac never touched, just tube rolls.  Maybe 1500 hours on the Mac. 10,000 plus on the VTLs

One sick puppy the OldHvyMec..
Oh BTW Everything was and is tidy. off the floor, in silicone, wood, and memory foam risers, VERY NEAT, It's not some rats nest. not a single wire touches another wire ANYWHERE. You can hear it if they do. Just never happened before. 50 friggin years. NEVER!!

In the interest of CABLES!!! Ya man!!!
Damn, I feel for ya but,. As someone whom was charged with settling damage claims directly with the customer and this on the worst cases we had nationwide. These were the one's I given "Carte Blanche", to settle then and there. They didn't want these in any courts.... I also did a Q.C. report on the entire electrical system and it's installation/upkeep, per NEC and local codes. Common sense.and upkeep were "As it turned out", the problem children, 100% of the time!
  So basically. Unless I see it, test it, Yada, yada yada.... Neither I nor anyone else can truly diagnose your electrical systems problems. Let alone it's idiosyncratic ill's. "Which they all have".
  I will say this though. The fact that the breaker tripped, "After" that much  damage was done would be the place to begin. And just to be safe, I would swap out any of them related to your gear for "Arc-Fault", type breakers and physically check your bonding system at the structures demarcation point to your homes main grounding electrode. "Just updating that particular bond may help a great deal since oxidation and electrolysis never sleep. "They are always too busy keeping rust awake". Also, would you know anyone that has a "Megger"? If you do, have them test each circuit individually and also have a recently calibrated phase rotation meter in the system at the same time. "Yes, even for a two phase system since polarities are still governed by sub-orbital mechanics at their points of self-delineation on the charge plane itself". And one incoherent phase relationship in a circuit matrix. "May" be what happened. Or at least a contributing causal factor.
 A question though. You are following a specific, "Network", cabling designs, topological construct. And using it as a modeling device for analog audio transmission AND a synchronous parallel digital transfer?
   Like, "X-10"?
 Also, would you know anyone that has a "Megger"? If you do, have them test each circuit individually and also have a recently calibrated phase rotation meter in the system at the same time.

I don't have one, but you explained what it does. My brother is a retired electrician. He might have such an apparatus. I'll check.  I have a 10 foot copper rod for each 20 amp outlet in ridged conduit. The breakers your speaking of Arc-Fault. Arcs then pops? The thing that get me is the Caps in that amp were charged SUPPER CHARGED. I had to drain those suckers several times. Then arced across the trace, through a small dot of resin. I was just amazed the sizzling while UNPLUGGED. I was a flying, I felt like one of those guys in a NASCAR pit crew. LOL

 A question though. You are following a specific, "Network", cabling designs, topological construct.

Yes, the only difference is adding or subtracting different conductors dielectrics, and covers.  The cable builds work perfect. falling on that cables neg lead, uhhhhh. something to do with that class d amp.  I've had toggles fail in speakers (VMPS) that put amps head to head, bass and mids. Scared the heck out of me. That popped 2 fuses, one on the tube amp and one on the SS Pass XA60.x, NOTHING like this though. I removed the stupid toggle that I never used and that fixed that.

 And using it as a modeling device for analog audio transmission AND a synchronous parallel digital transfer?
 Like, "X-10"? 

You lost me, a switch box of sorts? Or a TT with a CD or server. "synchronous parallel digital transfer" two digital devices at the same time?

I appreciate your help in any case.  I still haven't looked to see If I can fix the damn things.  Need to find someone I trust. That's tough for me. 
I'm picky as heck to begin with. LOL

Respectfully and with regard.
Um, the X-10 wasn't really hardware. More of a "way", to send multiple signals through the same cable at the same time. I was just wondering about that with the cabling architectures you listed on another string as I noticed you made cabling, :"As I do also". The cabling using multiples of different alloys, stranding and sizes you talked about? I started doing that a long, long time ago. With good results. The only cabling I have seen available like what you were talking about? Was fairly recently, "In the last few years".  But those I noticed were...missing a few things.
   So a 10' ground rod for each circuit? In what configuration at the bonding point? Or multiple points of demarcation? From panel to bond in rigid? "I am guessing that is what you meant, otherwise I'm not sure of the intention". Especially since that "rigid emt", would need to be bonded "back", to the panel bus OR a, "dedicated ground, insulated bus", itself to be without issues. I am also a big believer in the use of a "Super Neutral", bonded conductor with certain equipment,.."Amps".
Especially since that "rigid emt", would need to be bonded "back", to the panel bus OR a, "dedicated ground, insulated bus", itself to be without issues. I am also a big believer in the use of a "Super Neutral", bonded conductor with certain equipment,.."Amps". 

It is. It is grounded at every 20 amp box (3) and every box is grounded to a  10 or 12 foot copper rod with # 10 or 12 copper wire and a serious non corrosive highly conductive clamp.  At the main, there is a 20 foot copper ground and a foundational ground strap tied to rebar, going to ground in 6" reinforced 6 foot piers on 4 foot centers.  I don't think there is a bonding issue. ay?

Bond conductor? A paste? I use a product that is used for, dipping alu before bonding tight. It is called wolfcoat, German product, also in stereo gear. paint it twice and plug and then don't unplug. settles so to speak..
I have that here somewhere.. You know I've dealt with a lot of DC stuff through the years. A LOT. AC hee hee, it happens pretty quick. BOOM..

The cable builds are in the collection process currently. Hope I don't run out of amps. man oh man, self inflicted humor.. LOL I like the idea, of building a great cable at a reasonable cost that's fairly easy to adjust and WORK on..

Maybe offer something different, a little better for someone, do something...DIY, not bought for 12,000.00 dollars for god sakes..

Regards, thanks for the response.. I gotta see what's up with the amps pretty quick.... we'll see.  Everything is crazy here... The virus thing..
You got a secrete cable formula for one, your willing to share?? LOL

I'm all ears...

Regards...