Plinius vs. Perreaux???

I'd been researching the Plinius 8200, and came upon references to the Perreaux gear. Has anyone made direct comparisons?? Anyone with feedback on the integrateds and/or separates?
Do a search over at the Asylum. This has been covered there a couple times. There are a few direct comparisons between their integrateds for sure. Both companies are from New Zealand and as such, are direct rivals. Keep in mind that some of the Plinius posts that you'll run across were fraudulent claims of "customer satisfaction" courtesy of one of Plinius' own executives. He was later caught and confessed to his "promotional scam". Sean
I heard some of the Perreaux line recently and I don't feel they are in the same league as the Plinius - and I do not work for Plinius.
Hedge I can share my recent experience with the Perreaux 350 (sorry no experience with any Plinius though). First, just for fun, I went back thru the Asylum archives (per Sean's suggestion) but there's nothing referencing the current line. Mainly just invalid comparisons of some older/problematic Perreaux product to newer/more$ Plinius. Some remarks about Perreaux not sounding as smooth & airy as Plinius; a less-defined soundstage. Sean vigorously stands up against the Perreaux detractors on those threads, & after installing this mosfet 350 I must agree with him.
Recently I swapped out an all FET Ayre V3 for this monster amp Perreaux 350. The Ayre is a real nice amp, but at 100w/ch it would ran out of gas at higher listening levels. (I am aware of the Ayre V1, but it's costly & generates way too much heat; 360 watts at idle). My Ayre was sitting on Black Diamond Cones, on a Black Diamond shelf, over a set of Vibrapods. The 350 is just taller enough that I had to remove the cones & pods (leaving only the BD shelf) to fit the amp in my rack, so direct comparisons here are not yet possible under exactly equal conditions. (I still need to modify my rack to fit the Perreaux correctly). One nice thing about the Perreaux is much less idle power consumption / wasted heat, even compared to the V3. It still operates class A bias at up to 10 watts before going into sliding class A/B mode.
I kept all cables the same initially. Even when cold the Perreaux sounds more natural & dynamic; its sound reminds me of an older Luxman mosfet amp that I absolutely loved. Mids more natural & smoother. Bass has more authority & is in much better control; really has an iron-tight grip on the bottom end with a solid slam-factor. Highs I agree were not as smooth & airy as the V3, a bit edgy with a diminished stage. So I changed AC cords from a Synergistic Designers Reference Squared to a Custom Power Top Gun HCFI. That smoothed out the highs considerably; I'm still missing the air & stage of the V3, but remember that cones & pods are not yet installed either. I also need to experiment further with cabling & setup issues to determine the true capability of the Perreaux.
The biggest difference is in power output; no way I will ever hear this 350 go into clip. At the rated 350w/ch spec. they also spec. 2dB of headroom which comes out to about 550w/ch usable output at 8 ohms. Jeez the power is just incredible; you can go louder & louder & this amp never runs out of steam; it doesn't even get very warm! I just kept on cranking up the power until the point I was very afraid that a speaker (only rated 100w/ch) was going to let go, but not from amp clipping becsuse it just doesn't distort one iota. Those are my experiences with current Perreaux product & so far I'm very satisfied, but not quite delighted yet as I still have some tweaking/optimization work to do. The amp is well built, rigidly constructed like a tank. I'm still getting used to that big chrome auto-bumper faceplate (not my favorite face for an amp) but it's not bad-looking, only very different
Bob, glad to hear that your enjoying your new toy. You might want to get a "bug deflector" so as not to collect too many mosquito's on that shiny chrome "bumper" though : )

As to my comments about the old Perreaux's, i believe that they had two different "family sounds" within the same product line. The 2150's sounded different ( somewhat hard and forward ) than the 3150's / 5150's ( these two were MUCH warmer and smoother with OOMPH on the bottom end ). There were also the 1050's and 1150's with one sounding like the 2150 and the other sounding like the 3150. As you noticed, i was not familiar with the newer stuff and stated so in those posts.

From your initial comments, it sounds like the 350 is closer in sonics to the 3150 than to the 2150. As such, i totally agree about the "slam" factor and bass impact. The 3150 also lacked "air" and seemed somewhat "closed" in terms of the sound stage. I had tried these amps with tons of different speaker cables, preamps, etc... and had always come away with the same impression. At least they were consistent and you knew what to expect.

Then i tried my pair of 3150's with some YBA Diamond speaker cables. WOW !!!! I had never heard them sound so open and detailed. My girlfriend was EASILY able to tell the difference between the YBA's and some other cables that i A/B'd for her. Yes, the sound was slightly thinner but the high end actually sparkled and shimmered. Since the speakers i had them hooked up to were already on the warm side, this was a welcome change. Given the tonal balance of ones' system, the added brilliance that the YBA's brought with them might be too much of a good thing though. In other words, keep mixing and matching speaker cables. There is SOMETHING out there that will "blend" the sonics of the amp with the specific speakers that you're using.

For comparison sakes on your end, my 3150's are biased Class A up to appr 50 wpc. Needless to say, they run HOT, HOT, HOT. Idle temperature at the top of the heat sinks is probably about 150* F, give or take. When hitting them hard with no air conditioning in the summer, touching the heat sinks WILL burn your hand. In terms of them "running out of steam", i have been able to do that with some of my less efficient and low impedance speakers. With your speakers, they should coast at a just a few watts most of the time, even when getting on it.

As to popping your speakers, it is possible but not probable. They do have protection built into the tweeter circuitry. You might want to keep in mind that the original manufacturer no longer makes replacement diaphragms for your drivers though. If you really like those speakers, you might want to think about hoarding a spare set of diaphragms or two.

I ran an amp that was doing about 375 wpc into my "ugly" version of your speakers for extended "jam sessions". Just to see what they could do, I clocked SPL's at a steady 117 db's on AVERAGE at a listening distance of appr 10' or so. At this point, i think that the amp was running out of steam, not the speakers. While these speakers are supposed to be capable of 128 db's according to the factory, i think that they are talking peak and at 1 meter. Either way, you'll either be deaf or divorced if you try to find out : ) Sean