Little news.
I’ve solved all the problems of my TT-101, rotation, running led's, display, engine brake, speed adjustment and more.
After 7 hours of proper operation, the engine started to lose laps inexorably.
To start it now I have to push the plate manually, rotate regularly for some time then go back and lose speeds and slow down.
The engine looks very tired and has no strength to restart.
I read that another forumer here has the same problem but I can not locate her nick.
Fractured this pcb as well as Lewn’s pcb?
Ideas to solve the my problem?
Cheers
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Hi Lewn,
The defect is that the engine rotates well and adjusts for a long time (2-3-5-7 hours) then inexplicably the motor loses its rotation and slowly rotates.
I preferred to leave the electorolytic capacitors to be replaced last after having managed to solve all the problems.
The problems were resolved brilliantly (there were just a lot of welds to be tapped)
I had read in this 3ad that one or a couple of members had the same problem but did not have the time to search and understand in 30 pages as members has or had my own problem and know if they solved.
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Hi guys
Has anyone ever opened the TT-101 engine?
I read on the service manual that inside the engine there are components called "3 hole elements" but you do not see any electronic components at the holes of the engine, and the service manual in several steps is very rough and is not as good as that of the Technics SP 10II
Does any of you know what it is, what electronic components are in the engine or do you have any pictures to let me see?
I think the problem of the low engine power is caused by some element "inside" the engine but if I open the whole engine then it is not possible to proceed with the moving motor in order to find the defective component.
Cheers |
Hi lewn, I have read many old papers and found the problems of your TT-101 written a couple of years ago.
The result of my labors was to make an intermittent problem into a permanent one! Here is the failure mode: The tt comes up to speed based on the tach reading "33.33", but very shortly thereafter, within less than a minute, you will see readings suggesting the speed is off, 33.32 then 33.34, etc, typically. At that point, the motor shudders significantly and shuts itself down; the platter coasts to a stop with no brake action. The tach goes blank, except for the decimal point.
That's the story. This problem is what happens to my turntable. Did you find the cause of this, Mr .Thalmann told you what is the problem? Or better chance you can ask Mr. Thalmann how he repaired your turntable from this defect, what components had to be replaced? Cheers |
Hi Lewn,
the problem is that the cold engine has no power ...... the disch turns for a 50-60 seconds then slows down until it stops.
To start it again, you need to help with my hand, keep the 33 laps for a 50-60 seconds and then stop coming back.
The capacitors are ok, the power supplies are ok, the power transistors inside the turntable work ..... all the electronics have been repaired.
I just want to know what electronic component is that marked on the service manual called "3 hole elements" and that it is inside the engine .... i do not want to open the engine unless it is needed.
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Wow wow wow, great !!!
All of you have both given great hope to get my TT running.
Photography is very useful to understand a few things, on the internet there is no image of the TT-101’s engine content even on Japanese forums.
This is the first picture of the inside of the engine I see.
If it does work, it’s my wish to check and clean the pivot and bearing assembly to get some new oil, but I prefer to take a step at a time.
Many many many thanks to all the advice, I will keep you up to date on developments.
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many thanks, very useful to figure out what’s inside.
did you have to disassemble the whole engine part by piece? |
@jpjones3318
very interesting your repair, do you want to describe how you solved your problems?
Did you take photos to document all the repair?
It would be very interesting to see how you repaired the engine.
I am very convinced that the pivot oil will need to be replaced if you want to have the turntable in full efficency...for my turntable I will do this.
@rwwear
beautiful ........ already seen those videos several days ago, much has been said on an Italian forum. I think the engine (engine only) can cost about 8000-9000 €, but they are just hypothesis; until next spring (when it will be marketed) all enthusiasts will know the exact price.
@chakster
have you abandoned your intention to ship it to Wilkinson labs?
We will see if I can solve the problems and it is ok I will report here what the cause was.
cheers |
some cables coming out of the engine have the insulator seriously damaged
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HI,
Mouser, RS components or Ebay......there are a lot of online retailers!
You can search the Panasonic series FC 85 ° range or rather the 105 ° range.
From what I’ve found, Panasonic produces capacitors of all values, alternatively Nichicon, Sanyo, Elna .... but you have to check if these brands offer a large catalog of choice from the manufacturer you will choose.
Unfortunately the present capacitors will be much smaller in size than those on the turntable; in 40 years technology has made giant steps for miniaturization.
You will need to adapt them.
Cheers
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@chakster News for your TT101?
My TT 101 did not solve the problem of power loss with the slowing of the revolutions.
I heard the repairman a few days ago and he seems to want to give up; too much time lost to solve the problems that have been solved at 99% (I entrusted him to him in July 2017) too many hours spent and an expense account that could rise dramatically even more if you had to keep looking where the defect is .
So many welds are reworked and redone, but the problem remains, no capacitor replaced, his thought does not accuse the capacitors for this problem; 100 may be the reasons for this last flaw and from what I understood the problem could also be in the engine.
Without a working TT101 to have on the side to make the measurements it becomes impossible for him to go on; even the service manual does not help him, he says it’s bad, there are no all indications for the measuring and calibration points, there are no indications to solve the problems such as the drop in laps; the service manual of the simplest Technics SP 10II is much better.
I’m desperate to hope to bring it back to life before starting my restoration :(
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Hi guys
@lewn I read many times this and other threads to understand the problems of TT-101 and I reported all the information possible to the repairman but the conclusion was a failure.
Unfortunately, the TT-101 is a complicated and delicate turntable, each operation requires to mount everything and try, disassemble and reassemble disassemble and reassemble continuously with the risk of breaking a cable or other; all this is frustrating as well as increasing the hours for waste of time.
I also read the comment of chackster for the cost of Audio-Reparatur.de 1000 € is madness ........ you can look for another TT101 running for that price and keep the other TT-101 dead for spare parts.
Unfortunately the hourly costs of a repariman are high all over the world ..... it would be necessary to find a retired repairman who does it for passion at a flat rate.
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@rauliruegas
maybe you’re right, but I love the top level vintage turntables too much and I’m a big drug for me to own them.
I can not afford a Nakamichi TX 1000, Kenwood L07D, an Emt 950, a Denon DP100M, Pioneer Exclusive P3, Onkyo PX 100M, or a Victor TT-801 o many others, but a TT-101 for example if purchased to repair for $ 100 or some Technics SP 10 II cheap because junk, I do a lot willingly, even if I spend a lot, a lot of my free time to restore them, but is passion only passion or is this all madness?
I do not know but I feel that I really like it!
I’m tired of restoring only SP10II ...... soon I will finish two and I have three more awaiting restoration (in total I have in the collection four SP 10II and two SL1000MK2) I wanted to change model and I was hoping to buy the TT101 to appreciate this machine too if it could work; waiting I also have a TT-71 that was given to me and that needs repair and restoration for my collection but,I was hoping to make the TT-101 work too.
I am very stubborn even though I have little hope.
@jpjones thank you for good idea. ;) |
@downunder
in Italy has not yet arrived but it should still be a few weeks away
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It's the time to let it go the MK3 and MK2s.
Never, rather death!!! :) |
the Technics SP 10 R has a switching power supply, it can be an economic advantage for Matsushita but I do not like this kind of power supply; fortunately, the power supply is far from the drive unit, but it could trigger spurious feeds of the nearby connected electronics.
@lewm should not the MK3 platter have thick rubber under it as for MK2? |
@jpjones I see many thanks ;) |
A few years ago he bought a Victor TT-71 and because he has a 'need' to have the 'best'.....he declared the TT-71 better than the TT-81 and TT-101.
lol.....it is not necessary to make a religious war ....every enthusiast pushes his idols and his ideas forward I suppose |
The Jvc Victor has patented this many years after the ceased production of the TT-101 81 and TT801 what sense does this have if it will probably not produce more important or top-level turntables?
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I do not think that the choice of one engine instead of another makes all this huge difference and I would not take this parameter too seriously to think that a turntable is better; I rather believe that everything in composing a turntable makes the difference better or worse than the competition.
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I doubt any of this stuff can be repaired if something goes simply because the parts likely don't exist
wrong thinking, of the Technics 1200 lies almost everything. |
I do not like "switching" power supplies, switchnig are good for playstation or others commercial products, I have a feeling that they inject more spurious than quality, but mine are just ideas not substantiated by concrete facts.
If the engineers of Matsushita have decided for this type of power will have their good reasons, I do not think it’s just for greater material savings = greater gain .... in hi-end products is not tolerated to reason to economize.
If we analyze other examples, Linn in 1998 put on the market the CD 12 top-of-the-line player, which cost thousands and thousand of dollars and had "switching" power supply inside; in 2018 Naim produces separate power supplies with traditional components to make up-grading of its products from the cost even in these cases of thousands of dollars.
Every IHMO manufacturer has its own thinking on how to make the power supplies .... buyers should think only to hear and understand if improvements over old machines are audible instead of worrying about the technical performances.
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@pbnaudio Thank you for your offer, we could write in private but I'm not able to make the most of this forum I can try to search in some way your mail :) |
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Hi,
can anyone tell me if the TT81 engine and support is exactly the same as the TT-101 engine?
Would it be possible to replace one another?
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@lewm
I could only find the engine of a TT-81 but I do not want to throw money to the wind if I do not have the real certainty that it is compatible!
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Are you saying that you may replace the motor of a TT 101 with that from a TT81? Yeeees.... but only if it were exactly the same! |
then 2 similar but incompatible engines for easy organ transplantation.......
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(*See the movie, "Young Frankenstein".)
ha ha haaa lol :) |
there are effective and much cheaper solutions, for example the Gaia III of Isoacoustics (36 kg set of 4) that work very well and cost significantly less even in replacement of the original feets.
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Hi all, great combination. I took my TT-101 back in hand two months ago, after the technician failed a couple of years ago. First of all, I eliminated all the wire wrap connections by switching to a practical plug-in plug-in system in order to have the pcb in hand and to be able to work in complete tranquility without fear of tearing some wires. All cables have been coded with the name engraved on the PCB. Then I went to the full recap, replacement of all trimmers (I’m waiting for some from Mouser) re past all the welds (some very bad) put the horrible high voltage connection system with a new pcb into electrical safety. In a few weeks I will apply the missing pieces and try to turn on the turntable. before https://i.postimg.cc/7PFwMWmc/1.jpgafter https://i.postimg.cc/8C52VRZM/DSCN6163.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/KYwHSdkh/DSCN6167.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/T1Fwr2hH/P1010327.jpg |
Do you trust the Victor engineers....?
I do 🤗
I've never lubricated mine.
I recently overhauled the engine of the TT-71 opened to check the pivot and the oil, I was surprised that after 40 years the pivot was perfect and without any signs while the oil was still as new; I wanted to replace the oil only for scruple. The Technics SP10 MK II, on the other hand, always have a bad oil color that must necessarily be replaced and the pivots always have some stripes, I can't understand why. |
@lewm
I also happened to hear the noise of the engine of the TT-101 grumbling when it is running.
But turning the plate by hand without power supply, everything was silent ... I think it is only a problem of calibration or a bad power supply of the engine due to some electronic component out of tolerance.
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I first created a hole in the bottom of the chassis can, directly under the bearing housing in the dead center of the chassis can, using a hole punch designed for cutting thin metal.
I didn't understand the whole explanation but it seems a delicate job; didn't you fear to do some damage compromising the result?
And the oil did not spill?
Under the engine I know this screw cemented by the factory.
https://i.postimg.cc/T2Vm0Zj8/A.jpg
Wasn't it enough just to adjust the one higher or lower?
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for me if possible on the spindle you can also use a clamp above the SS 300 instead of the screw
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Yippee ki yayyyyyyy I finally managed to bring my TT 101 back to life after a few years of trying; it was a tough fight but in the end the evil was defeated.
Now I’m going to get drunk because I deserve it.
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