Turntable speed accuracy


There is another thread (about the NVS table) which has a subordinate discussion about turntable speed accuracy and different methods of checking. Some suggest using the Timeline laser, others use a strobe disk.

I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
peterayer

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4 German Ears for speed Tuning at Monterey Bay, California (Kuzma XL, Airline & Seiki 5000 + HS-80 Inertia unit, Thread Drive, Lyra Olympos, 2xFR-66s...)

Winner is ...

...the Owner.
Most turntable owners believe, they get a Product which is done right, more or less perfect for the money and all they have to do as next step to think about the ultimate technical solution (independent from price).
This is another common wrong way in audiophile existence. When we go back to the basics, lets think about the belt. Most of them are so horrible from quality and specs, it is hard to believe. Basis did a better work but most belts I tried produced so much drift, that any discussion about following Design features were wasted time.
Even with a heavy platter like shown in the picture showed me results, which were amazing ( really depressing what some 'manufacturers' offer us as 'High End'.

Belt comparisons..

These comparisons are even more depressing with light Platters....
The Audiophile gets what he deserves. Marketing and Fangroups can replace a lot today ....anyway...fun counts.
Tomorrow is another day to transform a big orchestra in a lifelike presentation into a owners home who did a lot of things right....
Speed Accuracy done right at Monterrey / California via thread Drive.
We have a small black hole in the wall, right behind the turntable. We guess it is a Laser burned one :-)

The Return of The Jedi

5....Kings at work
15 years ago I owned a DD Dual Turntable. Made in Germany, the best which was available at that time. I feel a bit guilty now when I read this thread, because I throw it away at the junk yard after listening to something serious.
At the moment this is used for Speed control .
But I am always ready to learn, in a few days I have the chance to listen to a rock port Sirius (DD) and a better Seiki (Belt) in the same System. The Rockport is a bit more than the accepted 300$ for a good Drive here, but nevertheless it is worth a listen...
In a way we should think different, because speed stability is one side, sound quality has absolutely nothing to do with it and a turntable which creates "something" is also a total different animal (Raul is absolutely right on that topic).
When you want speed stability, a direct drive has advantages because it always is in connection with the used voltage, it always correct its speed during play (accelerate-hold-reduce-accelerate-hold-reduce and so on).
Direct drives are good for those who believe, that this has something to do with superior sound quality. A listened to some really good designs and I know, this has absolutely no influence. A direct drive TT can sound thin, lifeless and boring. Maybe there are exceptions ...
A belt drive TT Designer has to solve some problems, see Belt quality for example. Most aren't even able to solve this properly, then we can't expect that those are able to design a proper speed control. and this story goes on and on.
When someone is reading this and has no time to read the former 3 sites
- go for any suspended Basis turntable with Basis Controller or Walker Controller
or
- ask Sorasound for an Amazon turntable, they have a Battery power supply.
That one is good.
- or SME 20/30

Others produce "something" what someone likes or not. Discussions about "this" are endless because one prefers black, white, heavy, expensive, rare, PRaT, catholic or islamic soundstage and so on. These "problems" were all solved years ago, unfortunately engineering is no longer part of High End Analog. It is replaced with "I like it". Analog is a following of steps done right.
... your new experience with a thread driven Raven sounds good.
Next, you could try this:
- disassemble the three feet from both of your motor housings
- set up the housings flat on some kind of damping mat (a piece of anti-drone mat for washing machines would help)
- rearrange the strings

Now the motor housings are no longer able to wobble slightly on their feet (that's particularly the case when strong tension of the belt/tape/thread is applied). In my experience this has also positive effects on speed consistency and sound improvement.
The Raven is a LP12 "in heavy". No matter what you do, it will always change its "performance". Typical sub level Design attribute. Tweaking a dead cow to a horse is interesting, no doubt, but other Designers made better work.
....It's a complex and zen system at the same time.

For a lot of Audiophiles everything is more or less a fascinating wonder when a light stars to shine and something is beginning to move. A turntable needs the right speed, knowledge to make the area of the needle silent and a solution to remove the energy from the tracking. All together in the best possible way (Engineering).
The Story is simple. But not for everyone :-)