Why aren't new vacuum tubes as good as old ones?

My Yamamoto A08s uses 45 tubes.
I have both the original WW2 era NOS set, hand / ear picked and matched by Mr. Shigeki Yamamoto himself, and a set of new production EML mesh 45s.
The EMLs are 3 leagues above the NOS in terms of sound quality in every aspect.
Yes, they do cost > $700 for the pair, but they are worth every penny :-)