Tube Tester


After a lifetime of solid state equipment I have switched to tubes, my first choice in sound but had not wanted to deal with the extra upkeep in the past. What do I need in a tube tester and any recommendations for something around $150 with shipping? I am using a Unison Research Triode 25 Integrated Amp with a Black Ice Audio DSD Wifi Dac, so the tester will need to be able to test EL34. 12AU7 and 12AX7 tubes.

Thanks
mtloriginal
I’ve also had tube gear for about 30 years and never needed a tube tester.  Save the money on a tester and just buy some extra tube sets.  Input tubes generally last a very long time and will make the most difference in most tube amps.  I recently had an integrated amp that the tube rectifier made a big difference as it allows more or less current to the amp which made a big difference sonically.  
So listen to what most people are saying here and save the money on a tube tester and just get extra tubes.
I appreciate everyone's comments.
 Millercarbon, I want to be sure I understand you correctly. If you swap sides are you listening for the sound coming out of one speaker to change as in left/right channels?
I don't think you really need a tester.  I own an Amplitrex, but, it is on loan to a friend who owns many more amps than I do, does repair work on the side for fun and can put that beast to better use.  Others, above, have given great advice about swapping tubes to determine which one, if any, are at fault, and good advice on buying reserve tubes; if something sounds off, just switch in reserve tubes to see if that resolves the problem.  
Nobody "needs" a tube tester. As mentioned above, there are ways to get around owning one.
But, I have to say owning one is a pleasure. I happen to have one that has worked flawlessly for many, many years. Yeah, a couple calibrations by Daniel Nelson over the years were costly, but heck, I look at it like a part of my system.
 My system wasn't sounding as good as it should have a short while ago. The second tube I tested in my pre amp was right around the minimum reading. Changed it out  (actually I changed out the pair) and whallah, system sounded better than ever.
Also good for when buying tubes that are advertised with test results, you can compare. And I have had a couple tubes delivered to me testing bad right out of the box (one from a very reputable dealer, who challenged me at first, then admitted it was bad once he got it back). 
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My main goal would be if I hear sonic degradation to determine the bad tube or tubes.

If you think you hear sonic degradation first swap power tubes side to side. It can’t be that all four degraded identically the same so it should sound different and you should know which pair and now just need to narrow it down to which one. Repeat the swap only this time one tube. Now you know which one it is. Unless there is no difference. In that case you know it was all in your mind. There never was a problem to begin with.

Unless its one of the input tubes. In that case swap those. Now this was a very low probability to begin with but at least now you know its not that. Finally you are down to the rectifier tube, which almost certainly its not.

Now the great thing at this point is when you realize you could buy a full set of tubes, all of them, and nice ones too, for much less than the cost of a pretty crappy tube tester. Which is why in 30 years I have never bought a tube tester.

Notice I’m not the only one. I’m with tablejockey on this. Honestly I think if you read what you wrote you will realize you are too.
my first choice in sound but had not wanted to deal with the extra upkeep


So all you do, realize the "extra upkeep" is imaginary. An old Jedi mind trick. These are not the upkeeps you’re looking for.

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Thank you for everyone's comments. I was asking what the tube tester needed to test and a recommendation for a tester. My main goal would be if I hear sonic degradation to determine the bad tube or tubes. My components have very low hours at this point in time.

From the comments it looks like there are no reasonably priced testers.
If a vendor needed to do the testing would this eliminate purchasing tubes over the internet ?




Otherwise, you’re probably better off buying a new Amplitrex AT1000
http://amplitrex.com


Hello tvas.. Do you know what they wanted for the Amplitrex AT1000
I looked at this before, They never did get back with me, on a price or build time.. There was another one too. 

Orange AT1000, last time I looked they were 425.00.  It's gone up 75.00, in 3 years..

What about that one? 500.00 Now...Though.

You ever use either one..

Regards
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Hi,
welcome to tubes.
what do you want to measure?
plate current, transconductance, noise, shorts, life of tubes, mu?
Type of tubes you want to measure are very popular and a good vendor can give you all the tests if required and match them too with a minimal fee.
If you want to start trading in tube market you do need a very good tube tester.
Tube testers are not all the same and do not measure everything unless you buy something more sophisticated at a cost.
Vintage Tube testers are indeed risky and most propably need service and calibration.

You really don't need a tube tester to enjoy your amp. 

Just buy from a reputable vendor. Matched pair power tubes in your case. Keep a spare of both power/preamp tubes. Tubes, especially the preamp tubes, generally are reliable, They futz out after a long time in service(years) 

$150 will buy you a $150 worth of nothing useful. That could buy nice tubes. The  tester a reputable dealer uses is not  like a simple hand held VOM.
Valve test equipment per say is not really, "I have this much to spend on a  tool", kind of tool.

You get what you pay for. I'm sure there are some killer deals too.  Test equipment, and killer deals are NOT always a great combo..

The older equipment should be checked for accuracy. There are some great old testers, too. Remember, we're looking to match valves not just see if they are shorted, or weak, but matched,  I also looked into one that was laptop based, should work too.  I'm not gonna recommend a brand. I use a Hickok 539A.  It has the old rolo file, Very Art Deco, the A series..

Others will chime in..

Happy hunting