Lightning quick DYNAMIC amp in the under $1000 range


Hi guys, slowly upgrading my system on a bang for the buck budget. Anyone know of a musical, dynamic amp for under a grand? I would prefer new, but if anyone knows of a good deal on the used market, that could work, as well.
bstatmeister

Showing 12 responses by georgehifi

Correct, you would only vertical bi-amp if using identical poweramps if powerful enough, using the speakers xovers there is no phase problems!!. But not with 2 Aegir’s as 25w is still not enough for the bass.

But in horizontal bi-amping still using the speakers xovers, I suggest the OP if he has the superior Class-A Aegir on the mids and highs and an cheap 100w midfi Class-D on the bass which they’re good at doing. And still no phase problems!!

Cheers George
bstatmeister OP
May need to add the Schiit Aegir to the list now that it’s available. It’s $100 more than the Vidar, but supposed to sound better overall as long as you don’t listen at high levels with inefficient speakers. The Vandy 2Cs are 88db efficient and I do like to listen loud once in a while, so if I wanted to go this direction, I may have to monoblock them, however if I do this
Don’t!!!!! bridge them, you gain wattage only, sound quality takes a hit.

Horizontal Bi-amp instead, put the Schiit Aegir on the mids and highs of the Vandersteen 2C for the best sounding Class-A mids and highs, and get a cheap 100w Class-D with level control (to match level to the Aegir) for the bass, they’re good for that. (maybe your behringer pro-amp) and use your preamp as the master volume control. 
http://www.av2day.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/biamp1.jpg

Cheers George
The Hypex NC400 is stable down to 1ohm.
The ICE ASC300 is stable down to 2.5ohm.


And the rest of that story goes.
Because of severe current limiting, my car radio is super stable it can take a dead short all day long so can my walkman, that doesn’t make it an amp that can give huge current down to 1ohm. What a smoke job!!

george, I have no idea which amp is best.
bstatmeister OP asked " So the STA-200 vs. Schiit Vidar is an interesting comparison. What would be the pros and cons of each be?
I said https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/1726421 All you have to do is look at the inside of the two, and if you know what your looking at, for the little difference I would go the Schiit Vidar.

Cheers George

bstatmeister OP
So what determines good dynamics?

A fast stable amp (extended FR) , good current ability, decent stiff power supply, that’s under control with low output impedance (good damping factor).

EG: an amp that can "double" its wattage for each halving of impedance. Increase it’s wattage by at least 70-80% from the "true, not understated" 8ohm wattage, say EG: 100w to 4ohm, 180w to 2ohm, 324w to 4ohm.

And the Vidar’s advertised spec, the Schiit can do 8ohm-100w 4ohm-200w and 2ohm-400w (2ohm only one channel at a time driven.)
This means it can do good current. (But I suspect the 8ohm wattage is understated to make the 4 look like it’s doubling)

But still these are very good figures for an amp that’s just $699!!!!, with a return if you don’t like it.
It’s dc coupled with servo and extends out to 500khz -3db!!!!!!!!

Cheers George


bstatmeister OP
What do you think about this one?
http://www.audio-gd.com/Master/A1/A1EN.htm

Audio GD is good value, but the Schiit is in the US, good for backup, and they give you a trial period so you can send it back if for some reason you don't like it. 
Here is a 30 page read on the $700 Schiit Vidar, and many more threads on the net if you search. 
https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/schiit-vidar-impression-thread-updated-with-...

Cheers George
bstatmeister OP
 The only one I can think of off the bat that might be good to try is the Schiit Vidar for $700.
+1 on that.

Cheers George
Measurement graphs to be more clear

That’s not the fault of Schiit then as you made out!
They have put up as much on the Vidar as any other product they make.

It hasn’t been reviewed by Stereophile or HiFi News AVTech (Miller Audio Research) yet, who are the only ones that do published un-biased measurement graphs.
This is what you should have alluded to, instead of making Schiit seem like they are trying hide something with the Vidar.

BTW: Subjective shootout, Schiit Vidar $700 v Benchmark AHB2 $3000
Quick read looks like they prefer the sound of the Vidar more than the 4 x!!!!! more expensive AHB2
https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/benchmark-ahb2-impressions-vs-vidar.5131/

Cheers George
Of course it’s Schiit’s blame.  
Sighted listening tests hold little value,

I think your just a little bit anti Schiit.

Cheers George
mzkmxcv
The fact that Schiit posts measurements for the $100 Modi 3 but not for the Vidar and others makes me weary, like they’ll only show performance if it’s good for the price.


Really!!!!

https://www.schiit.com/products/vidar   press specs tab

Power Output:

Stereo, 8 Ohms: 100W RMS per channelStereo, 4 Ohms: 200W RMS per channelMono, 8 ohms: 400W RMS Frequency Response: 20Hz-20Khz, -0.1db, 3Hz-500KHz, -3dB THD: <0.01%, 20Hz-20KHz, at 100W RMS into 8 ohms IMD: <0.01%, CCIR, at 100W RMS into 8 ohms SNR: >115db, A-weighted, referenced to full output Damping Factor: >100 into 8 ohms, 20-20kHz Gain: 22 (27dB)
Input Sensitivity: AKA Rated Output (Vrms)/Rated Gain. Or, 28V/22. You do the math. Input Impedance: 22k ohms SE, 44k ohms balanced Crosstalk: >95dB, 20-20kHz Inputs: L/R RCA jacks for stereo input, single XLR for mono input Topology: Fully complementary, all-BJT, current feedback, no coupling capacitors or DC servosOversight: microprocessor-controlled monitoring and management of critical operational points, including DC offset, with with relay shut-down for overcurrent, thermal, and other faultsPower Supply: 600VA transformer with dual mono main rails, plus boosted, regulated supply to input, voltage gain and driver stages, plus separate, isolated and regulated rails for microprocessor management. Power Consumption: 700W maximum Size: 9” x 13” x 3.875” Weight: 22 lbs

I’m neutral on Schiit, they make some good and some bad.

Which one is "bad" for the money, and what betters it for the same or less cost?

Cheers George