I love my EP15A. I didn't know about the patent deal you mentioned, but it speaks to the unigue circuit design. No other power regenerator offers the features of this unit.
I use an Audio Metallurgy 9AWG power cord. My amp, Martin Logan CLS's and Depth subwoofer are plugged into it -- as well as a 15 foot 10AWG cord to an ExactPower SP15A (balanced power unit) which then powers all the front end stuff. This is the optimum setup, per Brent Jackson at ExactPower.
You can do it without the SP if necessary for $$ reasons, and just plug a high quality power strip (with no breakers or filters) into the EP if you need a few more outlets for the front end stuff.
Both units run very cool. I have a lot of equipment (check my system) and the whole shebang only draws 425 watts or so, with every component powered up. |
Cytocycle, the ExactPower unit (the EP) does not employ a heavy power transformer like most others. It is a patented amplifier design which regenerate a constant voltage 60 cycle current. (And it's fairly light in weight)
The balanced power unit (the SP) does have a very heavy toroidal transformer, which is characteristic of all such devices. |
Babybear, re the SP15A balanced power unit:
I considered two EP's for the same reason as you did, but with 1500 watts of available output, you'd have to be running some BIG Krells or tube amps to need more than one EP. And the front end stuff, especially CDT's and DAC's (for some reason) seem to really benefit from balanced power; while big amps, powered electostats and subs don't really.
After I'd had the one EP for a while, with everything plugged into it, (and boy, what a difference that made!) I spoke w/ Brent at Exactpower. I'd already decided to do balanced power for my front end stuff, but I wanted to find out if I should just power the SP from a wall outlet near the front end, or power it from the EP using a long power cord. Brent recommended the latter. And in fact, I think ExactPower has a block diagram of just such a setup on their website now.
And yes, all the front end stuff performed even better with balanced power: blacker background on digital and almost imperceptable noise and hum on phono.
BTW, in case anyone was going to ask, with this kind of arrangement, one doesn't (in fact shouldn't) lift any grounds, and especially not at the balanced power unit! Just plug all the three prong AC plugs right into the outlets.
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Guido, Tvad (and the manufacturers he refers to) are correct, and you shouldn't use two-wire/two-prong cords with BP units IF the equipment you are using them with is originally designed with/for grounded AC plugs. Primarily for 1.) safety, and 2.) for noise cancellation benefits.
That said, I am using some two-prong equipment (tuner and cassette deck) plugged into my BP unit and they seem to work OK. I have wondered if I should rewire those units with a chassis ground to a three-prong plug, but it's a question I've yet to ask ExactPower. So if anyone has more info on this particular question, I'd be interest to know it. |
I agree w/ Hassel that the sonic improvements of the EP/SP override any subtle differences you'll hear between PC's -- with one exception: actually two:
1.) "The bigger the pipe, the better the flow." If you are using a 20A circuit (dedicated or not) it is house-wired with 10AWG per code. So IMO, always use a cord that's 10AWG (or bigger) to and between the power units and for your amp(s). Also, for reasons I don't understand from an engineering standpoint, CDP's and DAC's seem to like large wire sizes too. In any case, I recommend minimum 14AWG for equipment other than amps, conditioners, CDP's and DAC's.
2.) Even using a balanced power unit, when powering anything digital (including preamps etc. with digital readouts) always use a PC with a shield -- a shield that's tied to ground at the AC plug end and "floated" (disconnected) at the component end. Check with the manufacturer if you're not sure, because a lot of them don't say in their technical descriptions.
2a.) To the folks who argue that no highend mfr. would supply a crappy stock cord: in most cases they're right. However, look at the cord. It will state the AWG size and whether or not it's shielded. Except, if it is shielded, then there's a problem: in order to get a UL approval, the shield must be connected to ground at both ends, creating a ground loop. If you want to fix this, and save yourself some money, carefully remove a one inch section of the outer jacket near the component end and carefully cut out the shield. Then cover the wound with several turns of electrical tape, and you've got yourself a pretty respectable shielded PC. |
Pardales, the EP-15A is a power regnerator (and an excellent one) The other two you mention are balanced power units. Exactpower also makes a balanced power unit, the SP-15A. I have both of the Exactpower units and find them exceptional, but I've not tried the others. |
Pardales, please go back and read the first three posts on this thread -- should answer most of your questions. I (sort of) agree w/ Hassel. The only time you would do a balanced power unit first, would be if you had dedicated AC circuits and pretty reliable (constant voltage and accurate 60 cycle) from your power company (like if you live near a hospital or other major facility) and then you could do balanced power just on your front end stuff. |
As far as heat is concerned, you could stack a EP over an SP with no problem. The SP has no vents and doesn't even get warm. The EP is minimally warm.
I don't know what the electronic interaction might be though. You should check with Brent Jackson at Exactpower.
All the BP units have line filtering and overload protection. The Exactpower also has surge protection, but I don't know about the other two. |
Yoryios -- I forgot to answer your question about wire sizes. You are correct, most codes only require 12 AWG for 20A circuits. Sometimes you do find 10AWG in 20A circuits, especially in better construction and/or where there are long (over 30 feet) circuit runs, because of the voltage drop that starts usually around 20+ feet.
I always recommend that for dedicated audio circuits, if your runs are going to be over thirty or so feet, that you install 8AWG wire. Tip: ordinary duplex outlets will not accept 8AWG wire. Make sure to get outlets with "gas-tight" connectors so you don't run into problems. Gas tight connectors are basically clamps, where you insert the wire into a clamping mechanism which is then tigntened with a screw. Most hospital grade 20A outlets are of this type. |
