Do not worry about it. Buy a cable, use it, break it in, and report back.
A stupid question(s) about power cords
As the title indicates, I admit that this is probably a stupid question. But since I don’t know (for sure) the answer, I am asking it anyway.
The recent power cord thread got me interested in a power cord upgrade (from the stock cord) on my Maranzt SA10 (SACDP). The power cord receptacle on that particular component does not have a male equipment ground pin--only the neutral and hot pins. Therefore the cord supplied by Maranzt is a two pole (if that is the right terminology) cord. But because I have done it this way before, I do know that it will accept a power cord with an equipment ground as well as a neutral and hot.
Question 1: I went to musicdirect and looked at some power cords and I saw one (an open box Audioquest NRG Z2) that they were calling a two pole cord. The end that plugs in to the component only has a neutral and a hot, but the other end, the end that plugs into the outlet in the wall, does have an equipment ground blade (so that end has three blades). Why would that be?
Question 2: (and this is the stupid one) if a power cord has an equipment ground pin plugged into the wall, even if it is not plugged into an eqipment ground in the component itself, that cord is still connected to the neutral bus bar in the panel, right? So that being the case, since the equipment ground wire in the cord is right next to the hot wire, is there a way unwanted stuff (rf or whatever, my understanding of this is quite limited) can that dirty up the power that is traveling on the hot wire in the power cord?
I think that the answer to the last question is probably going to be ’no’? And if the answer is ’no’, that means that I really don’t need to shop for only two pole cords, right? And I see this as sort of important because if I buy a two pole cord, the ONLY component I can use it on/try it out on will be my SACDP--there will be no playing around with a two pole cord on my preamp or my amp.
And ALSO, if I don’t feel constrained to shopping ONLY for two pole cords, I would probably have more options to consider.
TIA for legitimate insight to this, and to all others, feel free to ridicule me and my question--I don’t mind.
95 responses Add your response
1. It is to orient the plug correctly so the hot and neutral of the receptacle matches the hot and neutral of the equipment.
2. Not necessarily. The dummy ground pin almost never has a wire welded to it so it does not connect in any way to the equipment chassis. You can shop for a normal 3-prong cord as long as the equipment end of the plug has the chamfered top and can fit in the equipment receptacle. You just won’t have a ground connection. That is not a problem as two-prong equipment are a double insulated chassis where the outer chassis cannot come into contact with a stray power wire. |
@gs5556 , thank you for that explanation! That makes total sense when it is explained that way. |
@immatthewj just sold SA10 few months ago. Nordost Heimdall 2 was a nice match with it. Opened up the top end a bit and improved clarity. Give it a shot. |
I'll thank you again on this thread, @audphile1 ! I was just about to post a topic on "digital" inquiring about about a good match with the SA10. I'll research the Nordost Heimdall 2. My SA10 is in front of a Cary SLP 05 which is in front of a Cary V12. I love the detail, but if it warmed up a bit it wouldn't bother me. The salesman at MD who sold me the SA10 told me it would really benefit from a better power cord, but I halfway didn't take that completely seriously, as that's what salesmen are paid to say, but I've always wondered about it. |
@audphile1 , I found that cord on MD (I think MD has a 15% off sale going on right now) and I am assuming you had a 3 pole cord?And as an aside, I just got done reading a SA10 horror story that you were a participant of in the digital forum. One of the takeaways from that thread (there were many) was that you are not a big fan of the SA10. I was impressed with the sonic presentation of mine; however, with that typed, I don’t have a lot to compare with--it was my first SACDP (SACD really impresses me) and prior to that I was listening to three pieces of 1990s digital separates that I am sure are, digitally speaking, obsolete,
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@immatthewj yep regular 15A IEC plug. Works fine with SA10. And yes sorry not a fan but I think it was more of a synergy and preference since the SA10 gets consistently good reviews. I just didn’t like it in my system. |
@audphile1 , I think I'll do that tomorrow if that 15% off is still good (I just got the "limited time" email from them today).. As far as the SA10, I have the feeling that you are travelling in a different league than I am, so that being typed, it is probably easier to impress me. Thanks for the input--itis appreciated. |
No... Even if the 3 wire power cord is an OEM power cord the placement of the safety equipment grounding conductor between the Hot and Neutral current carrying conductors is in what is called the null zone. The electromagnetic fields in the null zone cancel each other out.
As for this:
I don't think I've even seen a so called polarized audio grade two pole male plug. Lots of two pole grounding type male plugs though. (Cost, price = demand.) . |
Just use a three cord plug. It will be fine. As to whether it will shield RF, that is not the point of the third conductor, which is to ground the chassis of the electronic equipment. Oh, and burn it in, freeze it, bury it in dirt for 30 days, have it blessed by your local priest and spray Synergistic Research Audiophile Water on it. Sheesh...
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@jea48 , thank you for your thorough answer to the question. |
@grislybutter , If that’s to me, I actually know almost nothing at all about power cords and that’s why I am so hesitant to take the plunge. But as far as making fun . . . I did preface the thread by inviting ridicule, so I have it coming. I am glad I checked with you before I took the wet towels down from behind my speakers. |
@immatthewj as far as know, humor is not a widely understood concept here. Ridiculing, belittling are almost inevitable, given the vast differences in knowledge and the anonymous nature of the forum. Unfortunately that leaves me little to make fun of, but I still try :) |
@grislybutter , that should make me fair game for you. But not to worry--I actually do have a sense of humor.
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Yes, Preffair, but a 10 gauge cable. Can get it with plastic shells or aluminum shells. Google : Amazon - Preffair Audio. You should be at their main page. Down on the right side, top right power cable. The one I am recommending has aluminum barrels/shells on the plugs, is a 10 gauge cable, and is grey cloth with a spiral line. Sorry, I am a laptop dummy. |
@mrdecibel , it must be this one? |
@hasmarto , I was not saying that they didn't. I was just asking if there was a downside to having an equipment ground wire connected to the neutral bus bar if that neutral ground wire was not needed (as it would not be connected to the component). I didn't feel that this should be an issue, but who knows--I have been wrong before about stuff I was reasonably confident about. That's why I asked. |
@mrdecibel , is that the main difference between all of those 10 gauge Preffair power cords? Rhodium versus copper? |
@mrdecibel I appreciate your time and help. But I am a bit confused (as per usual). The last one I selected that you said was the one I was looking for is Rhodium plated and there are gold plated options; if Rhodium is a bit brighter, wouldn't one want to steer towards another option? Just asking. . . . ALSO: as far as the shell, would plastic be less apt to conduct RF? |
First of all, you are again, over thinking. We are talking under $50. How many electronic components have plastic tops ? Any piece you own ? That is the best from Preffair. The shell is aluminum alloy. It does great. I would say, if you feel better about the plastic shells, go that way, but this cable is still a great way to experience high end power cables for cheap. And, metals sound different, as everything does. My best, MrD. |
@mrdecibel rhodium has 50% conductivity of copper and 70% conductivity of gold. So you are adding more resistance using rhodium as well as expense. Some rhodium compounds are highly toxic also. |
Rhodium is the most expensive metal in the world currently. It is used in catalysis in the (converters in your car, albeit small amount) and in the petrochemical industry. Rhodium is currently 4750.00 USD per Oz. Copper is the best metal for conduction of electricity. Realize that most commercial electrical lines, and high-power lines to your home are made of aluminum as it is cheaper. |
I like to use shielded power cords, even when the device it is connected to is not grounded. The shielding should reduce the chances of local EMI/RFI sources like Ethernet / Wifi radios from polluting the noise after it’s been cleaned up by my power conditioner. IMHO, rhodium in the signal chain is garbage for two reasons: Poor conductor AND too hard, which causes poor grip strength. Better to have something soft and malleable the AC socket or speaker terminal can grab a hold of. |
Let me be clear. I never stated the Rhodium is the one I recommended. The manufacturer gives you a choice, and I am very familiar with both. I hear no less detail, or anything less, listening with the Rhodium connectors. However, as I did mention, they do sound a hair brighter to me. I too like shielding in power cords. The grip in the terminal is very tight. If you have not tried it, what you say means nothing to me. Have a great day ! |
correction: Silver is the best metal for conduction of electricity. https://www.thoughtco.com/the-most-conductive-element-606683 |
@rodman99999 my dear friend, you are so correct. 👍 However, I find silver, and silver plating in cables, extremely system sensitive, more so than the others, ime. My best, always, MrD. |
@audphile1 I have tried all of the metals and all of the shells on these, and the aluminum alloy shells are incredible, to these ears. My best, MrD. |