Need Zu Definition Pro Subwoofer Array Amp for $1k

I just noticed the amp is 10Hz-28Khz. So, that answers my question about the amp supporting the full range you suggested from 10Hz-100Hz.

I wish I could edit my last message!

Regards,
Mark

Well even most amps rated to 20 hz will probably play 16 hz, you are going to have a hard time getting something to support the spec of actually "16hz" this has more to do with the fact the speaker is actually efficient and tunned to play that low, not really the amp spec. If the info is down that low with any kind of authority than it will pass, the amp and any amp that I would know of is definitely down probably 3 to 12 db anywhere around 20hz...

Now thinking back to a Zu rule, they automatically boosted their amps in the Definitions(the ones with built in amps) by actually adding 10 db of boost just in the 20hz alone setting. Almost anything playing on most recordings thru your speakers or anybodys will need a lot of help down that low, unless you have totally perfect room acoustics, with like built int 18 " free air subs built into your foundation or something to boost that much power at those frequencies, which you still might not hear from what I understand, but feel some of the air and vibration. I can tell you this, I have had some of the best speakers show me a spec of 30 hz and just under... They have had better bass due to the tunning was really capable of it.

Most speakers rated at even 20 hz which is obviously for the most part very high end ones that cost some money still in my opinion have difficulty proving or producing it in any kinda viable musical way that will make or break a system.

My suggestion again, Don't get caught up in that spec. even with the Velodyn I bet it will actually produce the signal lower than the 30 hz rating and even if it does will not be that noticeable, so yes honestly you will need about 12 to 20 db of bass boost in the 25, or 20, or 18 hz range to even hear it mostly! This will be hard to do without using pro gear like the rane totally cranked up to its max gain in those frequencies and an amp almost any will do it, but if you fed a signal that deep for any duration it would probably just putter out or overheat anyway in most cases, were talking most recordings will retain a 16 hz signal for about 1 second if your lucky, you will not miss much.

By the way vinyl for example has rumble filters many times on the phono amp to actually Kill off any of this noise at 25 hz and below! Mine can produce 20 hz even thru a speaker rated to be 30 hz.

This stuff is getting taken a little to far honestly, your problem and major wall to hit would be "So what if you did hit 16 hz" because you will probably NEVER produce it in your room, unless you have some money invested in testing the room acoustics, and probably even a lot more money in actually tuning your room to produce it. Pick a good setup for you, money, function, and overall will it sound good on your speaker? It will be fine with any of these amps, ultimately the choice will be whats best to fit your needs...

I will warn you worrying about the 16 hz spec will have you chasing the dragon. Again it was barely any difference with the 20 hz 10 db bass boost as most music never would produce it anyway, I don't care what the rating or specs are... Make sure you can hear and feel everything between about 40 hz and 120 hz and you will be knocking the walls down!

By the way those amps have some serious current draw it looks like... You will need for mono's at least 2 dedicated 15 amp power lines. 13.5 amp is not slouch thats about double any mono I have used, and a 15 amp circuit should really only be run up about 12 amps. Thats why many go with 20 amp breakers in this case. I would stick with Stereo versions or some kinda Class D efficient amps.

Wow, thank you for the explanation about lower frequencies! I had no idea. Learning something new every day!

Here is the feedback from CC Poon at Monarchy about an email I sent him inquiring about both of his amp. I used quite a bit of the information in your posts and described my application. Here is what he wrote:
Our SE-100 is a single-ended amp. The Hot and Cold Signals from the XLR are fed into the same input. (Hence "SE" )

The only True Balanced Amp we make is our SM-70 PRO, which uses two amps for a channel: one channel for Hot signal; the other amp for Cold signal.

Other than the architecture, the two amps are similar in size and price.

Both amps should met your needs for hum free, and good damping.

So, what do you think? Velodyne, Gallo or Monarchy? If Monarchy, which pair?

I don't have room treatments, though after I get all my equipment purchased, I will focus on that next.

Might I step in here with another budget suggestion?

A classic(or two) Hafler DH-500 amp run about $250-$350 ea. These 50 lb beasts are legendary for driving just about anything and are bridgeable to 800 watts into 8 ohms. They were mainstays in the Pro audio world for decades and thousands are still in use. There are also companies that do extensive(& expensive) mods to them.

Power Rating: Less than 0.025% total harmonic distortion at any power level up to 255watts continuous average power per channel into 8 ohms at any frequency between20 Hz and 20 kHz with both channels driven.

Frequency Response into 8 ohms:
-3 dB, 0.5 Hz to 120 kHz at 1 watt
+/-O.5 dB, 5 Hz to 40 kHz at 255 watts

Input Impedance: 47,000 ohms
Input Sensitivity: 2.35 volts for 255 watts into 8 ohms; 0.145 volts for 1 watt
Damping Factor: 200 to 1 kHz into 8 ohms; 60 to 10 kHz into 8 ohms
Rise Time: 10 kHz, 80 volts p/p square wave, 10% to 90%: 2.5 us.

"The over-sized power transformer, the conservative operating levels of the MOSFETs, the computer-grade electrolytics totalling 40,000 microfarads, the enclosed relay, the use of film capacitors in signal circuits-all are evidence of the design efforts to achieve exceptional reliability simultaneously with state of the art sonics and specifications. So rugged is the DH-500 that it can deliver over 20 amperes into a short circuit!"

Obviously, Undertow's experience with Zu's speaks for itself, he really knows his stuff. But the Haflers are worth considering for any subwoofer application. Do a web search on the DH-500's or the pro equivalent D-500, it has a long and illustrious history. I found the fan in the D-500 to be too loud for home applications, but DH-500 works well.

Aceboympk
Hmm, that is interesting I was not aware the SM 70 was the only config with the true balanced XLR from monarchy. Not that its super critical as it will still work without an adaptor if you chose the SM 100's and a standard XLR cable will work just fine from the Rane to the amps.

Or as stated above by Darkmoebius, go with an older cheap amp that will do the job and hook it to the rane, or simply try a full on solution if you prefer to try and do this easier eliminating the extra EQ in the path, dumping the Rane....

I mean if you can get an amp or something local to just HOOK up to these speakers to try out would be your best bet just go to any guitar center, or sam ash, buy a decent pro amp make sure you have the 30 day return policy, and go hook this sucker up and have a little fun and knowledge!

At least this way you can get the Rane with a pair of cheap Mic/XLR cables going, by the way all you need is the HOSA brand type XLR cable sold at all your music shops for like 10 to 20 bucks a pair maybe radio shack. Then make a decision if the rane is going to work out for you and chose an amp based on if you want to keep the rane in the system or buy an all in one solution with some extra convienence factors on it like the Gallo or the Velodyn.

If you keep the rane then order a crown or something better if you feel thats how you will like to continue, my thing is learn the Rane system, and see how good of results you can get tweaked in which if its good and works well for you, and you love the sound than you found the answer.

Again these are all going to work for subwoofer control, don't get too caught up on specific attributes.

You did say your preamp is RCA only? Well if you don't want to mess with all this I can tell you whether you spend another 300 or 3000 your gonna be within 5% of what your going to get out of this system. So bottom line is if you want the simplest, most quality, effective purchase its probably going to be eliminating the Rane from the mix due to the conversions, the extra gear plugged in, and the extra dialing in needed. However you have it already, and it is the more expensive solution as it stands so add a 300 dollar pro amp and get to it!

Like I said take very little risk going to a local pro shop grab an amp, and a pair of XLRs, and for the second set of cables from preamp to rane either make them up using RCA jacks you can pick up at the local Radio shack to hack the ends off one side of the XLR, or get some cheap adaptors, which actually I believe radio shack or many guitar centers etc... do carry to convert your xlr to RCA.