I have had very good luck with the Copland DRC 205. |
I use the Copland DRC-205 with awesome results. I use it with elecrtostat speakers as well.
Good Luck |
Audsyssey Sound Equalizer
Rives PARC |
TAC. No contest. Read Cordesman's reviews of his TAC, which is still in his system. |
No doubt about it: The TacT 2.2XP! The Rives is an excellent PASSIVE unit, that will bring down peaks, but can do nothing about nulls. The TacT allows one to place the actives woofer of one's bi-amped system in the corners of the room where they can effectively load the room evenly and aligns them with the main speakers in the time domain. It also provides the option of a parametric EQ, if you want to curve the room via a steady-state(pink noise) signal in addition to the unit's automatic Fast Fourier Transform fuction(among a number of other features). If you are not thinking of actively bi-amping your system, the Tact RCS 2.0 preamp is what you'll want to investigate. |
Since you didn't mention a desire to bi-amp, here's a page that offers info on the TacT RCS 2.0(download the free review): (http://www.avguide.com/products/product-477/) If you have no nulls that you'd like to bring up to level(highly unlikely): I would recommend the Rives unit as no other EQ will be as transparent in your system as a passive. |
I have used the Z-Systems with great effect.Have heard this in many high-end systems and have always enioyed it. |
Before spending four figures on digital room correction hardware, I would suggest trying a software program to optimize loudspeaker placement.
I would guess there a re several of these avalable, but one I have used is a $99.99 program called "Room Optimizer" available from the PRG Difussor folks (I believe they're one of the major manufacturers of room treatment products) available at: http://www.rpginc.com/products/roomoptimizer/index.htm.
I have used this program with great success to smooth out "lumpy" bass in my listning room which was obvious to my ears despite multiple ASC Tube Traps and endless "trial and error" repositionaing of speakers not quite getting it done.
To use this very simple program one merely enters the room dimensions (L, W, H), a little info on low-frequency driver position - i.e. height from floor, or "Z" axis (assigning one driver as the "independednt" driver and the others as dependednt on the first driver's position), an acceptable range for the listening position, then clicks on "start" and the program - through repeated "virtual" repositioning of speakers - comes up with the ideal position for the smoothest possible bass. You can even enter parameters for the position of the speakers to fall into in order to keep the speaker position within some reasonable placement range for aesthetic concerns. It will then give you the placement coordinates and show a graph of best and worst frequency responses for the possible speaker placement coordinates that fall within your defiined parameters.
In my case and for my room, I learned that in the wrong position I could have peaks and nulls of over 20dB difference! The results in my case were amazing...not a subtle thing.
I've read over the past several years about sophisticated hardware, most notably the TacT - which I'm sure can be extrememly effective for room correction - but have not heard any such equipment. In my case and at present time, using this program to reposition my loudspeakers I am not hearing amything that makes me feel I need to spend this kind of money for room correction hardware.
FYI: I have no connection/affiliation with PRG or this software other than being a satisfied user... |
I use the Rives PARC for stereo subs only, allowing my "mains" to naturally roll off at the bottom end. I measure with a Monarch Instruments spl meter and have achieved a very nice result, both by ear and by the numbers.
I was a very early adopter of the DEQX back in '04, but have much more satisfying music now. This stuff ain't easy to get "right", and my solution is only what has worked for my ears in my room. |
Tks for the inputs.
On users of the tact 2.2, i understand that the stock unit only comes w/ digital inputs and outputs.
If a system consists of a sacd player and integrated amp (tube or solid state) how does one interface the unit to the system ?
Has anyone here used the ones from accuphase either the DG38 or DG48 ?
Many thanks guys. Need all the help i can get.
Noli |
Mr N- The "stock" unit comes any way you order it. Are you planning on bi-amping your system? If not- the 2.2 is not what you want(it's designed two drive two woofer channels, as well as the main channels). Whether the 2.2 or 2.0: They can be configured any way you choose. The 2.0 only needs one DAC and one ADC to function fully analog through its inputs and outputs(fully balanced or single ended). If you were to purchase one used and it wasn't fully analog: The converters could be plugged in by you, or Boz could quickly do the install. It's as straightforward as plugging an audio driver board into your PC tower. |
Mr N- I missed your question concerning interfacing a TacT with an integrated amp. The tact units(either 2.2 or 2.0) are pre-amps/control units/room correction devices and you'd need no other device between your analog line level source(phono pre, CDP, RTR tape, etc.) and your power amp(s). Of course you could also input the digital output of your CD transport directly into the excellent circuitry of the TacT unit and let it oversample and reconstruct your music signal. If you own an integrated amp already: If it has a pre out/main in loop, you would simply bypass the pre-amp section altogether and feed the output of the Tact into the main amp. |
Rodman,
tks for the reply.
I have no plans to bi-amp my system.
My source is a cd player Esoteric sacd/cd player. I'm not so sure whether the 2.2 can read sacd ? Maybe i would need a analogue to digital converter.
If to use integrated amp, and if integrated amp is not digital type, how do i connect tact into amp tape loops ? is this were a card adc would come into play ?
Also with tact, can you manually boost and reduce a certain frequency much like using a graphic equalizer /
Tks again for help
Noli |
Mr N- Since you are not interested in bi-amping, you don't need the 2.2. The 2.0 or 2.0S (http://www.tactlab.com/Products/RCS20/index.html)are what you should be looking at and they can be equipped with analog ins and outs also. These TacTs have a parametric EQ that allows you to choose what frequencies you want to affect(up to twelve freqs, left and right independent of one another), the level of boost/cut(+/-12db), and "Q" or octave bandwidth that the filter affects. |
Rodman,
Tks for the help.
i've looked at the rcs 2.0 and they have a model with analog in s and out.
TACT 2.0S AA Core + AD + DA converter: This is the complete digital preamplifier suitable to replace the preamplifier in existing systems. The modular design gives almost unlimited potential for upgrades. 5 digital inputs, 4 stereo analog inputs, 3 digital outputs, 2 stereo analog outputs, balanced and RCA.
In effect with the parametric eq it should solve most room anomalies ?
You mention about 12 frequencies, which frequencies are they ?
Regards
Noli |
Had 2.0S for years. Sold it not to long ago. Few notes:
-it is a very nice toy
-does well in nesty rooms
-nice DAC
-cool features
dislikes:
- rub your system from transparency
- outdated DAC when compared to what is out there now
- not a great dedicated preamp as one would think
- set up is easy but not for everyone
OK mid-price room correction/DAC/pre nothing more, nothing less. Sorry if I disagree with others but it is my experience and YMMV.
Mariusz |
The ADCs/DACs in the new RCS 2.0 and 2.0S have been upgraded since the first models(just in the past year). I've never owned the 2.0, but do own an RCS 2.2Xaaa, and the new converters are better than what I've got. My experience has been nothing less than excellent(and I'm extremely picky about transparency, being a sound technician and hearing live music AT LEAST twice a week). |
Mr N- You can choose your own frequencies to EQ (anything between 20 and 20kHz). That's IF there's anything left that needs to be EQ'd after the TacT runs it's automatic correction algorithms. If you can operate a computer(and I assume you can, or you wouldn't be able to respond to this thread)- The TacT should present no problems. There's a brief learning curve, and should you encounter any difficulties at all- Boz(the designer) is a very helpful support person. There's also a TacT Users Group, and TacT Hackers site loaded with experienced Tact tweakers to aid in any and all situations. Lots of happy TacT owners, and support for new ones. |
Agree with Rodman, mostly.
1. I've found the Tact units to be pretty transparent, and even better with the Aberdeen after-market power supply installed (as with everything, the Tact is built to a price point). There are better preamps, but when the advantages of room correction are added in, the Tact is hard to fault. Most rooms mask way more detail than the slight opacity of the Tact.
2. The Tact DAC card is awfully good for a $500 DAC. Slightly to the detailed side. If you want to hear what Tact can do with digital conversion, consider the Tact 2150 (and it doubles as an amp). It replaced a $5k tube DAC in my system and I was only giving up a little.
3. How much do you listen to SACD? The Tact has a pretty good A-to D card, but it's a backslide with SACD in my experience (like most, Tact won't decode the digital SACD stream). I sold my SACD player as I found the Tact didn't do it justice. That said, redbook WITH room correction sounded better than SACD without. So, there are trade-offs, but if you listen to a lot of SACD, the Tact may not be the best option for you.
4. Does your integrated have a line-level input? You can use the Tact as a preamp & DAC (with the DAC card installed) that way, simply bypassing the integrated's preamp. If it doesn't, you can still use the Tact digital in/digital out, but then you'll need a separate DAC (does you Esoteric have digital inputs?).
5. Again, if you want to use your Esoteric as a player rather than a transport, and it doesn't have digital inputs, or if your integrated doesn't have line level inputs, Tact may not be your best option. As decent as the A-D is, I wouldn't want to be passing all my signals through the Tact's A-D converter.
It's always a help if you post your system when asking for advice of this kind -- good luck. |
Agree with Richards' #5, given that you place importance upon maximizing effect with minimal signal "degradation". |
Many thanks the responses guys. Appreciate it. I will give Boz a call one of these days.
You guys been of super help.
Thanks.
Noli |
