Thinking About Upgrading the VPI Tonearm Base


This post is directed to VPI Classic TT owners. I own a Classic 1 TT, with a Classic 3 wand upgrade. Been thinking about upgrading the tonearm base to the Classic 3 base. I am not interested in dropping the $$$$ to buy a Classic 3 TT. The Q is would you expect that upgrading the tonearm base will yield any improvement in sound??

BTW, when I asked Mike at VPI if this could be done, he said ... yes.

Mike also suggested that I might improve the sound isolation of my TT by mounting the TT on a 2 or 3 inch thick piece of butcher block, which would be supported by four tennis balls placed in ashtrays to provide stability -- i.e., to keep the TT and butcher block from rolling off the table. I'll report back later about the results.
bifwynne
I can't help much with the incremental upgrades, because I jumped directly to the classic 3 from the classic 1. I am very happy I did. From a resale perspective the classic 3 is class A in Stereophile 2013 recommended components. You won't necessarily get that from a resale perspective with incremental upgrades to the Classic 1. Although it would be much cheaper than a Classic 3. Don't forget you also get the outer record ring weight and center weight. You also get better eye candy with the classic 3, I think it is a fantastic looking table. The classic 1 is a good table, the classic 3 is a great table, I believe the plinth makes a huge difference in that respect, if you haven't seen a classic 3 , I suggest you look at one to see just the difference in the plinth. I believe the plinth contributes greatly to the much lower noise floor of the classic 3.

I made a comparison between the classic 1 and classic 3 as soon as I upgraded,everything else was exactly the same,only turntable changed on this thread.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1263789072&openflup&17&4#17

Good luck with your decision.
Do you mean chaning the arm base from 10.5i to one that comes with VTA on the fly?
I did something similar a couple of years ago, changing from 10.5i base to one with VTA on the fly. Personally, I don't think there is any sonic difference. However, you will get VTA on the fly which make adjusting VTA much easier and much more accurate and repeatable easily. A bigger improvement would be from chaning the silverwire (Audioquest?) to Valhalla wire. I can't remember if Classic 3 armwand comes standard with Valhalla wire or not.

I heard one of the first Classic 3 prototype and compared it directly with Classic I (back when bearing was still similar if not identical, same arm) and the improvement is quite signficant in my opinion. The heavy aluminium plinth does make quite a difference.
Yes Suteetat. Actually, Mike (VPI) said I could drop the Classic 3 tone arm base on the Classic 1 plinth. He said it's very easy to do. As you know the Classic 3 base has VTA on the fly. My thought is that the upgraded Classic 3 base will match the Classic 3 arm I already have. I guess my Q is whether the Classic 3 base will improve the sound playback as compared to the Classic 2 base, which also has VTA on the fly.

Btw, Mike mentioned that VPI will be introducing a super-duper fixed gimbel tonearm for the Classic 2. He suggested that I wait and try it out.
I've taken both apart, the classic 1 base and the classic 3 base. Both are directly bolted into the plinth, certainly the mass involved is a huge difference. The classic 3 base has a solid steel "hockey puck" with 3 holes drilled directly through it. On top of the hockey puck is base with threaded screw assembly with 2 guide rods. The black knurled knob assembly with tonearm rest screws on top of that. I should also mention there is a guide rod right next to the tonearm rest so there is only one way to screw on the upper assembly. You get a total of 15 turns before the top assembly is pretty close to coming off the middle screw assembly with guide rods. The pivot is offset from the hockey puck base, so the same 3 holes from the classic one base will not work, there will have to drill 3 new holes to get the same spindle to pivot distance and geometry. I guess if they don't want to drill and tap 3 new holes, they will have to include another base which will compensate for the offset. The holes in the plinth are tapped, so the Allen screws go directly into the plinth. With the upper assembly all the way down, knurled knob at zero, the tone arm is basically close to horizontal with most cartridges. The you have 15 turns, 100 units per turn, so 1500 units for VTA adjust.
I don't know about better sound quality, there is certainly a lot more mass, and the VTA adjust is very convenient. I have all the offsets computed for digital scale, MINTLP, 180 gram record, etc, as I posted in Acterseus post. So from a VTA standpoint it is super convenient. Also fun to play with on the fly to hear VTA differences.