are all amps equal


I have recently gotten the Mcintosh bug, but a friend of my who does a LOT or reading on the net says power output is the answer not the name. I am looking for the best sound I can get in the 3k$ range for my Usher Be 718s. I have looked at many used Mcintosh units in the 200 watt plus output area, but my friend says a new 250 watt Emotiva would be a better value. The Emotiva is around $800.
I would like some imput.. Thanks, Don
keslerd
Where should I spend my Money.
I will list my system again.

cd- player Onkyo DX-7555
amp- ARC 150.2
preamp- ARC LS1 (old)
all my cables are Phillips from Walmart.
speaker wire 12 gauage, 10ft. run, and bi-wired

I plan to spend between 3k & 4k$, where would you put the money. The Usher speakers are here to stay. Thanks for ANY suggestions..
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Keep in mind that what additional power will do, everything else being equal, is to raise the volume level at which clipping occurs, and perhaps raise the volume level at which distortion starts to increase as the clipping point is approached. That's all it will accomplish.

And that in turn will depend on the size of your room, your listening distance, and the kind of music you listen to. Worst would be classical symphonic music, due to its wide dynamic range, and also obviously heavy metal or comparable rock music that, while it typically has highly compressed dynamic range, is listened to at very loud levels.

That said, I would think that given the speaker's 200W rated power handling, an amp in the area of 250 to 300W would probably be a good choice. But I'd feel free to deviate from that somewhat if it meant getting better sound quality or a significantly better price.

Concerning ICE and other Class D amps, one of their key strong points (aside from providing more watts per dollar, and reduced size, weight, heat, and power consumption) is high current capability, which does not seem particularly applicable to your speakers with their fairly benign impedance curve.

Regards,
-- Al
Thanks Tvad, and everyone else, I plan to go the Mcintosh path with 250 watts of more... Thanks again...
"Also, I would recommend buying a subwoofer since you're not planning to
replace the BE-718, which only go to 42Hz, and therefore are missing a
significant range of bass where much of the music lies."

Lowest bass or electric bass string is 41.2Hz (I think). Piano goes down to 27Hz (A) but is seldom used. Unless somebody listens to symphonic orchestra with big drums going down very low or needs special effects for the home theater than 42Hz should be fine (if its really 42Hz).

I'm perhaps missing something but there were known bass strings reaching 17.5Hz. I don't see (hear) any sense since it's not audible. Tvad - can you comment?