How to upgrade a nondetachable power cord?


Hi
My Conrad Johnson amplifier has a captive power cord.
I have bought a VH audio diy kit to make a new power cord. So, What do you recommend?
- Cut the original amp cable and put a female connector and then plug the new cord
or
- Open the amplifier and attach the new cord inside the amplifier. This would take a big hole to do it.
Please give some advice
Thanks
ALAN
alanbrain
I am sure that manufacturers adopted detachable power cords for a practical reason...so that they could easily configure their products for sale in different countries that use different configurations of electrical outlets. This opened an oportunity for the "upgrade" business that has been thoroughly exploited.

If you think that the wire which the manufacterer used is somehow inadequate, a few feet of new wire should cost only a few dollars. The new wire should be soldered in place just like the original "captive" wire. A soldered connection is always better than any plug. (Besides, the captive approach discourages "PC rolling" that could bankrupt you!) While you have the chassis open you might like to count up how many "push on" connections there are between the power cord and the transformer. The power switch, the fuse holder and the transformer itself are frequent offenders, but some designs have many more. You might consider hitting these spots with the solder while you are in there.
Hi
Well, its been a long time. And I was inmersed in tons of job. But 2 weeks ago I did it. I put a female connector in the CJ cord. And then put my male-male Vh audio flavor 2 power cord. I have to tell you the background is dead quiet right now. I did put some heatshrink in the female and it looks good. The soundstage has become a little bigger and the highs are more present.
Thanks for all the help
Alan
sounds great Alan. Which CJ amp did you do this on? I recently acquired 2 MF2100's with light duty captive power cords.
I noticed while visiting the Aural Symphonics website the other day that they make a special (?) adaptor for just this purpose called the Power Inlet Mod. Go to:

http://www.auralsymphonics.com/power%20im.html

You cut the captive cord short and attach this adaptor. Don't know how much $$, and it's probably no better than Alan's solution.
I did it in a Conrad Johnson MV50.
Cable is still breaking in, Chris Venhaus from VH audio said it will take near 200 hours to get it cooked.
See you
Alan