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Phono Preamp Help - 47K Ohms - 100 Ohms .. Huh?

I am relatively new to analog and therefore have little experience matching a cartridge with a phono preamp. I currently have a Shelter 901 which the user manual specs at "within 100 Ohms" as the recommended load impedance for the head amp. I've been shopping for a new phono pre and find that many top phono pre's are all rated at 47K Ohms and are not switchable.

This got me thinking that maybe 47K Ohms was the right setting for ALL phono stages and sounds the best... So since I currently use a Black Cube which IS switchable between 47K Ohms and 100 Ohms I decided to play around.

When in the 100 Ohm setting, I feel the sound is crystal clear - nearly perfect - yet the midrange seems recessed ever so slightly causing some recordings which I know should have heft and body to be somewhat recessed sounding and maybe thin. Also, at 100 Ohms, the sound is not quite as involving as I like. It's not exactly bright but quite close.... really close - in fact, as extended as I've ever heard a system be without being able to confirm it as being bright.

Switching das cube over to 47K Ohms gives a dynamite midrange. Very impressive vocals. Solo instruments seem incredibly lifelike - highs are ever-so-slightly rolled when compared to the 100 Ohm but during complex music, and even not-so-complex music the mids seem somehow congested as if the notes are bumping into one another slightly - perhaps muddy - more or less "confused". This sucks because everything else seems to be close to perfect.

Each setting has its virtues but I feel the 47K Ohm setting would be ideal without the midrange confusion.

Now for the questions...

If my Shelter 901 is designed for "within 100 Ohms" what the heck does that mean? Within? Does this mean I need to stay at 100 Ohms for the best match to the cartridge?

When switching to 47K as I said above, there are some advantages and clearly a few disadvantages. Are the downfalls more related to the phono preamp, the cartridge or even the impedance match? I mean, could the congestion be a result of the black cube itself vs. a direct result of the impedance settings?

What's more important - the preamp or the impedance setting?
bwhite
wsin
12 posts
 
Shelter says the loading for the 901 should be less than 100 Ohm, with different phonos I had good experience with 100, 150 and 1000 Ohm so it depends on the phono amps. VTA for the 901 is also important that different settings produce different presentation, I ended up slightly tail up. I have heard other users spent up to 3 months in getting the right VTA. I don't think tracking force is as critical, I am tracking at 1.65g.
I have had various vintage of LP12s over the last 20 years, I feel it is paramount to have proper support for the LP12, the best result I had is a Sicomin platform and I think other light and rigid platforms will also do.
consttraveler
250 posts
 
The Coph Nia is factory set at 100 ohms, but, pop the cover off and there are a series of dip switches that allow adjustment from 40 to 47k Ohms. I found that 100 Ohms is the "best" setting for my Dynavector 17 D-II, Karat. Any higher and the upper registers become progressively more "pinched."
bwhite OP
807 posts
 
Consttraveler - how is the Coph Nia??? I've read a bit about them and I'm curious to know what you've compared it to. Care to share?
consttraveler
250 posts
 
Bwhite:

I am reservedly happy with the Coph Nia. I have not had it very long (maybe 40 hrs. play time), and I am relatively new to analog. I just got back into LP's about a year ago after a layoff of about 25 years, so a review by me probably will not be very useful.

However since you asked, the Coph Nia is replacing a Rega Fono MC unit (at about 3 times the price) that sounded very nice, but I felt I was missing some detail and extension, as well as volume. The Coph provides much more extension, better bass, and a bit more gain.

I am only reservedly happy, because I was expecting more gain, and still feel I want/need it. My cartridge is a low output MC (Dynavector 17D-II, 0.23mv) that provides the signal to the Coph, from there through a Mark Levinson 380S pre, to the amp. With such low signal strength, the 380S must be adjusted to very high volume to get the music to a good listening level. As a result, I am getting speaker noise (actually, Preamp Noise) along with the music, which bothers me on quiet passages. By the way, I have tried several amps and the noise stays, also when in digital mode, I can duplicate the noise but I have to turn the 380S up to a nose bleed, paint peel, level.

Back to the Coph Nia; I like it, it is very musical and very detailed (which I like). I have not been able to identify a "signiture" that it imparts, that is, I don't hear the Coph. I was not able to audition other units so I purchased it after reading all the reviews I could get my hands on, and after talking with a couple of dealers who's opinion I trust. I guess, I can sum up my impression by saying that I still trust the opinion of the dealers.

If there are any other questions I can reply to, I will be happy to answer to the extent of my knowledge/experience.

Dave
cpdunn99's avatar
cpdunn99
639 posts
 
This is one of those "holy grail" issues that has no set answer; it is all so personal!

My Goldring Excel VX is rated at 100 ohm and is a low- to medium-output MC cartridge (0.5mv) Using an EAR/Yoshino 834P tube phono stage works very, although I don't know its specs.

However, the Blue Circle solid state BC23 phono stage, like many other makes, has DIP switches and adjustable gain that can make a huge sonic difference. Setting the BC23 to anything other than 100 ohm is a waste. For one thing, I have to turn up the volume on my amp to almost 2 o'clock! Setting it to 100 ohm sounds better. Adding the extra 10pF DIP switch clears things up a little more. Then, setting the toggle switches to 61db results in magic!

With these setting, the results are wonderful. I must say, however, that although I'm happier with the BC than with the EAR, both are very fine for under $1000. With the BC, one must remove the cover and set the switches (no big deal), whereas the EAR simply has a button on the rear that changes from MC to MM output (much easier, but does not allow for tweaking).
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