How can any review of a piece of audio equipment not comment on the "sound" of the component at all?
Because some components, when designed that way, really don’t have a sound compared to their similarly designed peers. That people won’t accept that does not make it untrue. For components that do have a sound, the sound is dependent potentially on what comes before it, what comes after it, the speakers, the room, the person, their mood, to the point that listening impressions, for anything but speakers become nothing but a good story and about as useful as a marketing sheet.
ASR's reviews are a tool, and measurements, if you understand what they mean are essentially irrefutable evidence taking in the context of how the test was administered.