Fuse Upgrade to Ceramic not glass


Been researching fuses and see a need to upgrade to Ceramic over glass but don't neccesarily buy into the hoopla over expensive Fuses, I would say getting rid of any glass type for ceramic is the way to go , I truly believe thats what people hear the difference in , ceramic is a much better material for acoustics than a crap glass / thin wire that can Vibrate and be a weak link in my opinion I'm not about to spend a fortune on fuses either a quality ceramic will suffice. Question where does one find out what fuses are in his gear ? I want to figure out what I need for my Marantz before I take it out of my Rack and spend time  , open her up just to figure out what I need is a big time waster. I called marantz they referred me to a svc Dept but they couldn't tell me either , Is there a way to figure out what I need to have it so I can do this project in one shot?? or maybe I have ceramic already and dont know it , breaking my rack down to figure out cant happen.
nickaboy1
Post removed 
If the fuse access is not visible then it is inside the unit and it could be in a clip holder, which you can pop out and change, or it can be soldered in, which makes it more difficult to change. The only way to tell other than opening the hood is to refer to the service manual. Marantz (or any other company) will not tell you anything that involves opening the chassis for that implies there are user serviceable parts inside.
nickaboy1: Been researching fuses and see a need to upgrade to Ceramic over glass but don’t neccesarily buy into the hoopla over expensive Fuses
Atta boy nickaboy, don’t fall for the hoopla. I use those fuses and that’s all it is, hoopla. Pure unadulterated hoopla. Not a shred of substance behind it. Won’t do a thing for your system. No one will ever notice.

Oh wait, what’s this? https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367

Suffice it to say, it was the biggest, most powerful musical experience I’ve ever experienced in a home setting.


Nevermind.

Here is a good cheap duplex receptacle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113707109589
New US $8.99 + shipping.
Contact the seller and make sure what is pictured is exactly what you are buying.

FYI:

The outlet has a brass non plated backstrap.
Internal contacts are non plated brass heavy duty commercial/industrial grade.
The duplex is rated for 15 amp but the contacts are the same contacts that are used in the 20 amp 5362 duplex outlet. The only difference between the 5262 (15 amp) and 5362 (20 amp) is the faceplate on the outlets.

This outlet would be my first choice. Why? Because it is built exactly like the old no longer made Hubbell HBL8200H/8300H slim/slender compact body duplex receptacle. The only difference is the IG5262/5362 (IG = Isolated Ground) is built with the backstrap and center hub, that is used to support the wall cover plate, from the two IG equipment ground contacts of the outlet.

You won’t be using the outlet as an IG, (Isolated Ground) outlet. You will want to wire it as a standard grounding type outlet.

Simple to do.   

ONLY NEEDED IF THE WALL OUTLET BOX IS PLASTIC. IF BOX IS STEEL DISREGARD. THE AUTO GROUND FEATURE OF THE OUTLET WILL BOND THE YOKE, SUPPORTING BACKSTRAP to the EGC. The branch circuit EGC still must connect to the IG ground screw terminal on the outlet.

If the wall box is plastic.

You will need to pick up a couple of grounding pigtails.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-tools-accessories/terminals-connectors/terminatio...

First you will need to install one of the green grounding pigtails to the yoke, supporting backstrap, of the outlet so it will be bonded to the branch circuit EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor).


Look at the photo of the outlet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113707109589
See the outlet 6/32 support screw at the top of the picture? That silver looking stainless clip is called an auto ground. Remove the 6/32 screw from the clip. Install the 6/32 screw through the eyelet of one of the ground jumpers. Install the screw back into the auto ground clip of the yoke. (The spade end of the grounding jumper will be cut off. Insulation of the jumper wire will be removed for connection to the branch circuit bare copper EGC ).
The other green grounding pigtail Fork end will connect to the the green EGC screw on the duplex outlet. Cut the eyelet off the other end of the ground jumper. Remove enough insulation from the jumper wire for connection to EGC.

Next twist the two bared stranded wires of the two jumpers together. Use a wire nut/connector to connect the ground jumpers to the branch circuit EGC.


2nd choice for a good duplex receptacle.
https://www.hubbell.com/hubbell/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Wiring-Devices/Straight-Blade-Devi...
Also a great outlet. Though from my listening experience, and that of others, it will cause the sound of the audio equipment plugged into it to have a warmer sound than the slim/slender compact body outlet above.


From my listening experience, and that of countess others, the HBL8200H/8300H has a more neutral, natural, sound to it.
The Hubbell HBL8300H outlet was the one that Albert Porter had cryoed and sold here on Agon for years until Hubbell stopped making it several years ago. Albert then ended up using the IG slim/slender compact body outlet to get the same sound as the discontinued HBL8300H outlet.

Just do an archive search here on Agon for users that recommend the Porter Ports for many years and probably may still be using them.

Jim
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