How would you prioirtize?


I have been following this forum for about a year now and it has definitely helped me improve the sound of my system without much expense.  I now find myself ready to step up and spend some money for the next few steps in my adventure.  I have come up with 4 areas that could help me rise to the next level.  I would like advice on which order you would take these steps.  I have ability to spend $2-$4k every 6-8 months.  
I currently love my system, but I can hear room for improvement.  With the right record, I can turn it up to around 100db and it blows me way.  Other records don't sound so great even at lower volumes.  I know that recordings differ, but the bass gets boomy and the details are lost far too often.  I can't help but feel that with improvements in my system all records would sound much better.  I want to widen that sweet-spot.  BTW I do clean my records, it's not pops, it's the richness, details and bass definition that is off on some recordings over others.

My system so far:
  • Turntable: Thorens TD:150 / original Kugel arm / DL 160 re-tipped by Sound Smith / on springs-maple board-springs.
  • Power: McIntosh MA 8900 / original power cable / orange fuse (it does make a difference)
  • Cable: Blue Jean 12
  • Speakers: Belle Klipsch / ALK Extreme Slope crossovers / Dynamat dampened / on Hardwood sprung floors away from side and back walls / toed-in.  My system has been build around these 70's era speakers.  I am emotionally attached to them, they have a great story.
  • Room:  25' x17' open space and lively / slanted ceilings / 3 windows on one long side / carpets and curtains.  Listening couch is 9' way from speakers, somewhat mid-room.
Below are the items on my list of improvements in no particular order:

  1. Source: a. Replace the arm on the current TT (AMG 9W2 is an easy swap I am told).  b. Replace the whole rig.  I have always wanted to have a Thorens TD-125 and I am in contact with Dave from Vinyl Nirvana.  Besides being the same vintage to my speakers it has a more easily swappable arm-board.  Arms on my list include Audiomod, Origin Live, Groovemaster, SME, Thomas Schick and a few others.  IMPORTANT:  I got ahead of myself and purchased a Sound Smith Zephyr MMIC that I would like to use on the next arm.  It was too good to pass up...
  2. Phono Pre:  I am most interested in Decware and Herron.  Decware would need a Step-up transformer for the Zephyr MMIC
  3. Isolation:  Solidsteel wall shelf for the TT.  Townsend speaker bars for the 18" x 29" base (I don't think they make podiums that big).  I was originally going to put them on Pavers, but I feel that I should go big after hearing reviews on the Townsend ability to isolate. (buy once buy well)
  4. Cables and other items:  Power cords, better speaker cable, other isolation, room treatment.
Thank you for your time and helping me wade through his information.

Eddie
128x128edgyhassle
Do Try various Sub Plinths and Footers arrangements under the TT.
Energy is transferred to a TT through Air and Structures.

The Sub Plinths and Footers will attenuate the environmental effects.

I have not at any time found this practice to be a wasted investigation.
The outcome has been to discover a comprehensible perception of a  improvement to the presentation.

My Investigations, 'that are limited' for working with a Cabinet Speaker Set Up, are that Sub Plinths Produce noticeable improvements.
 
The Perception of a sharpening of the Imaging and producing a Leaner Bass Note with a improved Mid - High Projection can be attained,
this is at the cost of a Broad Soundstage.

Seating Suspension Footers between the Sub Plinth and Speaker
( I use Two Tiers of Sub Plinth each with Spiked Footers, with a Set of Three  AT-616 seated on the Top Tier ) has in my experience added a improvement.
The addition of Suspension Footers Widens the imaging and separation, 
broadens the Soundstage in all dimensions, and there is a perception tht the performance has a increased presence, but not as a added weight or richness.  
Note: I feel sure that there will be a group of listeners who would be very satisfied with the Speakers Performance, when seated on the Two Tier 
Sub Plinth before the Suspension Footers were added.

Creating a Two Tier Plinth is Relatively Cheap and worth the time taken to investigate the effect it can have on attenuation within a environment.  
Before an amateur will buy random acoustic panels he must order acoustic analysis of his room. Some rooms are simply awful for sound, some are good. Mos of the cheap acoustic panels are useless.

Instead of GIK you can order room analysis from Vicoustic (I paid 50 EUR for complete 3D model of my room with acoustic treatment).

If you want to learn more (how difficult it can be) you have to watch his lectures online (very informative).

Then you will realize how much you have to pay for a proper acoustic treatment if you will ignore all cheap foam panels flooded the market (or some junk from the manufacturers who promises you a great result if you place a few square little something behind your speakers etc).

Real acoustic panels are made of natural wood, they are big and heavy, this is what professionals have in the studios (like this diffuser).

Absorbers are easier to make, last year I discovered Basotect (remember BASF ? ), they can make any custom size and color, look on their site for pictures.

P.S. I bought these absorbers from Vicoustic two years ago, sadly this model is discontinued. Took this image two days ago thinking how I’m gonna glue them. Those type can be nice in any interior design, I have only two colors. The Wavewood are on my wall behind the speakers for a long time, they are nice. For the ceiling I got Multifuser DC2.

Actually you need panels everywhere (all walls and ceiling), so it can be ugly and expensive!

Here is my old thread about it (hope it will help a bit, maybe).



this is at the cost of a Broad Soundstage.

The cost is too high. Especially considering you can have it all.

@chakster , you want to use ceramic tile adhesive for those, use a base trowel to apply the glue and stay 1/2" away from the edges. You will be able to adjust them a little once they are on the wall and the adhesive has enough body so they will not move or fall off whole they are drying. Otherwise excellent advice. You have to know what you are dealing with before you deal with it!
Vicoustic supply their own glue for the panels.
Some of them can be glued with liquid nails, some of them are not.

I’m searching for the right glue which is safe for acoustic foam (on the back of the panels). Those panels may look like concrete, but it’s just light weigh acoustic foam in fabric. Still can’t decide on the pattern, so many combinations, here is the latest one.