https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wiring-Devices-Light-Controls-Electrical-Outlets-Receptacles/...=
Yes, looks like a dryer receptacle
Yes, looks like a dryer receptacle
Dedicated power
I'm looking to run a dedicated 30a and dedicated 20a line to my system directly from the fuse box.
I currently have some florescent lights and some other junk on the line so I'm hoping it will be an improvement. Things sounds like they are straining somewhat when you crank things up. The amp will go on the 30a line and the digital stuff on the 20a.
Anyone done this and saw improvements?
I currently have some florescent lights and some other junk on the line so I'm hoping it will be an improvement. Things sounds like they are straining somewhat when you crank things up. The amp will go on the 30a line and the digital stuff on the 20a.
Anyone done this and saw improvements?
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- 145 posts total
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If you are going to get the Parasound HCA-3500 you will need two power cords since it has two 15-amp fused IEC inlets. So you must run two 20-amp circuits just for that. If you are going to get the Fidelity KW500, that has a 20-amp IEC inlet. For this kind of power draw, get the amp switched to operate on 240VAC so that a standard 20-amp circuit (#10 or #12 wire) is more than twice the current carrying capacity. Install a two-pole 20-amp breaker and run it to this to plug it in: https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-HBL5461R-Single-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B00N8ZG8NC Then one more 20-amp circuit for the rest of the stuff. |
One dedicated 20 amp line is more than enough. In my setup installing an audiophile quality circuit breaker had a bigger impact on SQ than the dedicated line itself. Regular circuit breakers do bad things to the sound, so check out the audiophile one from Gigawatt. For 75 Euro, it's one of the better audio bargains I have purchased. |
- 145 posts total