Recommendations for electronic crossover.


I am bi-amping my B&W 804 matrix speakers with a 50 watt per channel tube amp for the top and a 200 watt SS for the woofer. Any suggestions for reasonable priced crossover? I have been told Merchand (?) makes a good one.

Thanks!
jpahere
tread lightly when bypassing the crossovers of any quality loudspeaker.  
they usually do a lot more than just filtering out low or high frequencies.  
the other highly critical functions may include:

BSC  baffle step compensation, reduces frequencies that are reflected off of the front baffle of the speaker.  bypassing this can lead to more lower midrange energy and forwardness. 

Level matching.  Voicing the relative level between the drivers. Bypassing this circuit will require re balancing the drivers.

Crossover slope and phase.  Bypassing this can lead to drivers out of phase and loss of imaging and coherence.  altering the crossover frequencies can put drivers out of their comfort zone and lead to non linear response and higher distortion.

Zoebel network.  Bypassing this can alter the impedance and linearity of a driver.

Notch filter.  Bypassing this could lead to peaks  and high distortion in the reponse of a given driver.
@georgehifi --

Some redundant info here
Not in the least, still fact with Class-D’s today.

Class-D, you mean in bridged config. or stand-alone? My experience with Class-D is far from exhaustive, but what I’ve heard is noticeably different compared to a good Class-A design or even a ditto Class-A/B iteration. My as-is unwavering preference at least what concerns the central to upper mids on up is for this range to be handled by a Class-A design, but I find it less obvious from ~1kHz and down. Certainly I wouldn’t choose Class-A here for my active set-up, for a variety of reasons.

@avanti1960 --

tread lightly when bypassing the crossovers of any quality loudspeaker.
they usually do a lot more than just filtering out low or high frequencies. [...]

Oh, absolutely. It’s a potentially complicated process and steep learning curve, and I wouldn’t as much recommend this approach (i.e.: converting a passively filtered pair of quality speakers into actives) as a design that’s born sans passive cross-over to being with. This mostly boils down to DIY and the pro sector, with the latter having sometimes preset filter-options to implement. Either outset could be a challenge, but once you get a handle on the different filter aspects I’d wager the freedom of choice, on-the-fly filter settings changes and differentiated approach to amp topology (that’s possibly) as it applies to each driver - added to the bliss, as I see it, of avoiding a passive cross-over altogether - it becomes addictive and a rather obvious bye-bye to passive.
Not in the least, still fact with Class-D's today.
Sorry,  Not in the least, still fact with bridged today.

In general Bridged Amps
Pros=
More watts.

Cons=
Worse damping factor
Higher output impedance (has relevance to damping factor)
Lower stability (especially into low impedance’s)
Current ability is reduced (especially into low impedance’s)
Higher distortion.
It's always has been the same.
@georgehifi --

Not in the least, still fact with Class-D's today.
Sorry, Not in the least, still fact with bridged today.

In general Bridged Amps
Pros=
More watts.

Cons=
Worse damping factor
Higher output impedance (has relevance to damping factor)
Lower stability (especially into low impedance’s)
Current ability is reduced (especially into low impedance’s)
Higher distortion.
It's always has been the same.

You left out better slew rate in the 'pro' camp of bridging.

In any case those "facts" offer a convenient way to make an all-encompassing statement saying bridged amps only offer more watts while taking a hit in the remaining areas. What has, truly, "always been the same" is that it depends; given a sufficiently "sound" amplifier design (those aren't difficult to come by) and a speaker load that isn't downright problematic or too low-impedance, bridging won't invite stability issues. Indeed: what's the relevance of the stated cons as they apply to actual sonics? 

Roughly 3x the power though gives you more headroom, ease and likely a lowering of perceived distortion, and if a better slew rate is anything to go by transient cleanness should see an uptick as well - all of which aren't too far removed from my listening impressions of bridged amp constellations. 
Bridging has nothing except more wattage over leaving the amp as stereo, you've been told now not just by me.