Why no interest in reel to reel if you're looking for the ultimate sound?
I've had the same experience with Studer-ReVox, they are excellent machines but they all likely need some work especially replacing those Frako capacitors. I've tried to recap a Revox B-77 before and their PCB board is very prone to trace lifting, I recommend leaving the Studer-Revox to professionals. The Otari and Tascam I originally recommended are a lot more reliable. This is coming from a Studer owner. |
@pch300 you missed the point I was trying to make, or I did a very poor job of describing it The point was not to record your LP to tape,and A-B against the LP, the point was to compare the commercially released LP, played back through a high end table and phono stage, and compare to same commercially released 7.5 ips tape played back through a reworked deck with high end tape playback electronics (not the high neg feedback electronics that all tape decks have). And secondly, we are not talking 15ips master dubs. We are talking about the the tape releases made by ampex, united stereo tape, and others back in the day. if you A-B the LP on a high end table and phono pre to the tape on a reworked deck and high end tape playback electronics, not always, but usually the tape is much better, more open, more dynamic, greater imaging, etc . for those interested, its not hard to modify a phono play back circuit. The RIAA curve has 3 time constants to make the curve, the NAB and IEC curve have two. Its usually about 5 bucks worth of caps and resistors and presto, you have a tape playback preamp...... and if you are really on a limited budget, you can pick up one of the EAR or Marantz 7 tube clone phono stages from china for under 500 bucks, and use that as your tape plackback eq. you do not need to spend multi-kilo bucks unless you want to go all out on tape playback, no different than going all out on LP playback or hi rez, digital file playback. .. hope this helps. |
