Lets talk dedicated lines


About a year ago I installed a dedicated 20 amp line for my system...and went as far as modding the whole power structure from the street transformer to my panel to my house...at some fairly major expense. The result was certainly an improvement for my system.
Recently i got to thinking that a lot of us have a system that utilizes the standard 15amp line that more than likely only supplies one other component in our rooms...and that is the lights. While lights can be noisy on the system, particularly if they are halogens, then this is a source of considerable hash and noise. However, since the only other thing shared by this line are the lights...and not the more power hungry grabbing stuff..like the refrigerator, or the Ac etc, then simply playing the system in the dark should essentially allow for a dedicated line effect to materialize on the gear that is attached to this line as well. The standard room convenience outlet( which is what we are talking about here) is 15 amp breaker protected and is only supplying the lights and the convenience outlet in a room....so ( assuming that this is the case--and the lights are the only thing supplied besides the outlet) what is the real advantage to the 'true' dedicated line ? Twenty amps is more than a lot of auto gear needs, so I doubt that is the issue...thoughts?
128x128daveyf
kymanor118 posts  

03-05-2020  
 9:23pm   

We all know the benefits of dedicated lines, so what is this all about?

Best practices....
Hopefully to better understand the type of branch circuit wiring used and the best method used for installing it.

Jim.
You make some good points, but you are mistaken about lights and outlets being on the same circuit (breaker), unless your house was built before the 1960's (or against code).  I use a dedicated 30 amp line to power my system,  and it works great.  For those of you who want to test a dedicated circuit of 20 amps,  at least before shelling out a lot of money for  electricians, etc., get a good 20 amp extension cord and run it from a dining room, kitchen, or preferably from a dedicated clothes washer outlet to your system.  BTW, a 15 amp circuit uses 14 gauge wire, 20 amps 12 gauge, and 30 amp 10 gauge.  Breakers blow at 75% of their rated amperage.  Thus, my two 1500 watt draw Audire amps alone, need the 30 amp breaker, despite their regulated power supplies; that plus two preamps, three tuners,  a CD player, and turntable.    
RE: The comment about 240 volts and a step down transformer.  I ran 10 gauge wiring from a 30 amp 240 volt breaker, then split pairs of 110 volt outlets to run half my system on each leg, giving 120 volts per leg, and 30 amps of current.  It is a lot cheaper, but if I sell my house, I will dismantle the circuit to protect the innocent. 
@ danvignau

Here is an older white paper for a circuit breaker. The trip curve/requirements for current manufactured Thermal-Magnetic (T-M) breaker are still the same.

Note you can continuously load a T-M breaker to 100% of its’ handle rating and it will not trip if it is operating at its’ designed specs. (Continuous is defined as three hours or more).

https://goodsonengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/CircuitBreakerMyths_web.pdf

Jim.