Take baby steps. The SR fuses might be the best way to go but take heed of rodman99999's advice and try out the fuses on discount.
Just yesterday I tried out three different fuses that I had laying around on my Kinki EX-M1 integrated. They all sounded different. For awhile I settled on the PADIS fuse as I liked what it did to the bass and mids.
A few days prior, I enjoyed the company of a recording engineer as we listened to one of his recordings. Although he felt the sound bettered most of what he's heard at audio shows, it was still off and simply wrong as it related to his recording and what he knew it could sound like.
Perplexed, I realized that the fuse wasn't the one that came with the unit and put that one back in. I believe it's a Schurter, ceramic tubed fuse that you can get for $2.00, which is way better than any of the glass fuses out there.
The bass and mids tightened up with better attack, separation, and decay and the highs got airier and much more realistic. It's back now to sounding like you're in the studio with an almost stark reality. Also, I have gone through two different speaker cables since the use of the PADIS fuse so I neglected to take those variable into account. Too much fiddling.
Long story long, try out the cheaper fuses first and see what direction they take you. Then proceed from there.
All the best,
Nonoise
Just yesterday I tried out three different fuses that I had laying around on my Kinki EX-M1 integrated. They all sounded different. For awhile I settled on the PADIS fuse as I liked what it did to the bass and mids.
A few days prior, I enjoyed the company of a recording engineer as we listened to one of his recordings. Although he felt the sound bettered most of what he's heard at audio shows, it was still off and simply wrong as it related to his recording and what he knew it could sound like.
Perplexed, I realized that the fuse wasn't the one that came with the unit and put that one back in. I believe it's a Schurter, ceramic tubed fuse that you can get for $2.00, which is way better than any of the glass fuses out there.
The bass and mids tightened up with better attack, separation, and decay and the highs got airier and much more realistic. It's back now to sounding like you're in the studio with an almost stark reality. Also, I have gone through two different speaker cables since the use of the PADIS fuse so I neglected to take those variable into account. Too much fiddling.
Long story long, try out the cheaper fuses first and see what direction they take you. Then proceed from there.
All the best,
Nonoise