Need some help soldering Binding posts.

There are so many images of improperly soldered Cardas binding posts on the internet that I decided to change my profile image to that of a somewhat correctly soldered Cardas binding post. I say "somewhat" because when I have the time I am going to redo mine by first looping the wire through the little hole and then soldering. I did not do this initially because I needed to be able to remove the nut, however, now I do not because I switched to Cardas mounting plates that mount over small cutouts in the back of my speaker cabinets. 

This solder was done with a Weller 300/200, Cardas solder and extra flux. The solder will flow like water when heated with an iron having the correct wattage. A 60 watt iron  ill heat the Cardas binding post sufficiently to melt the solder and make the connection. However, it will be a cold solder and will not sound as good as a wet solder. I know this from experience.  

Hi Craig: I see that you’re still trying to improve your workmanship for soldering wire to a binding posts. Your plan to loop the wire into the binding post hole and then solder is a good one.

A couple things. From what I can see from the picture you show, this soldering job would not pass industry standards (IPC). The wetting angle is not correct and there is no strain relief to the solder joint.

The difficulty, as you know, with soldering anything to a binding post is to get it hot enough. Your choice of solders exacerbates the problem. I would use Sn63/Pb37 alloy which melts at 183C instead of something like SAC 305 which melts at 217C. That way, you don’t have to get the binding post so hot. All electronics prior to 2006 (RoHS) where fabricated with Sn/Pb solder. There is no difference in SQ.

As for technique, you should coat the wire and post with rosin flux prior. Then hold your iron up against the outside of the binding post by the hole the wire is looped thru. Feed your solder to the inside of the binding post at the post/ wire interface. When done, the solder joint should have a smooth fillet (proper wetting) and not be a big blob.

The IPC solder standards are not in the public domain but there are some boot legged copies on the web.

The Cardas hole makes it tricky. It does not take much solder and you need to see the strands of wire that have been tinned in a small trough of solder. I've done it 2 ways,take off binding post copper nuts, put drop of solder in front of hole and another small drop across hole towards the cavity. I've done it between 700 and 850 degrees. Soon as solder starts to melt hit the tinned wire for split second then then put it all together fast.  Other way is to clip off or cut(Dremel) the hole and your left with cavity with easy access. When you melt solder is more a timed thing than a visual thing. Can't see solder it just disappears and bubble gums. If you can slide washer on wire it can also give access to more metal to heat up, I never did it that way.

Do you have to solder or can you just loop the internal wire to the Cardas posts?

@garthb309 -

     The best way I can imagine, to make that work, would be to use an extra nut on each post, to securely capture your wire and guarantee a connection.

     IF your posts didn’t come with 2 nuts per (AND I remember correctly); 8mm-1.00, jam nuts are what you’d need.

     Were I going to pursue that idea; if needed, I’d confirm the size/pitch, before buying anything online.  Most hardware stores have gauges/sizing boards available, if you don’t have a way of determining the specs, for yourself.

      Hard as these nuts are to find: brass or copper would still be the preferred material,