I agree that the Mint is a very valuable setup tool, however, the Fozgometer and its accompanying disc is as valuable as well. The rod on the arm method is very approximate, and doesn't usually work to give all the air, dynamics, depth, etc. (unless you're lucky) that can be had.
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jjss49 - My S2P distance was off by 2 mm max resulting in unresolvable sibilance. Whether 1 mm makes an audible difference? Possibly but probably not the problem you are having anyway. If you can align the two null points simultaneously and the cantilever is exactly parallel to the lines, you’re OK. Anti skate is a good bet as well as VTF. Set it on the high side. If you’re using a scale on the platter, the unipivot arm will be a tenth or two lighter at the record height. Azimuth and VTA "should" be near parallel with the platter. I use a Millennium Block to set the headshell (not the arm) parallel to the platter from both side and front, then dial in azimuth and VTA by ear. FWIW I have a Fozgometer and never use it. It requires dialing in by ear also and since the Block gets me in the ballpark way sooner, why bother? The key to it all is going back and re-checking everything after any adjustment and repeat, repeat, repeat until it’s right. It will take way more than an hour the first time. |
To quote @wlutke "I then dial in azimuth by ear". Even after using a fozgometer final adjustment should be done by ear using a method such as this ps Joel also notes the limits in setting azimuth via a meter given that approach only optimizes for one kHz and that may not be the most musically satisfying result for a broader frequency range |
@wlutke does 1 mm make a difference? You bet your socks it does. If IRC the alignment tool I use (an Acoustical Systems uniprotractor) assumes .1mm or less as the goal in setup (admittedly tricky to achieve in practice) a read of the manual for this setup tool is quite illuminating for its discussion of the desired accuracy |
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