Mint lp best tractor for VPI Classic


Does anyone in the SF Bay Area have a Mint best tractor for a VPI Classic 1 that I can borrow/rent/buy from?  


baaach
wlutke

yes it occurred to me i might’ve done the mint process less than perfectly

also reading about the 258 mm vs 259 mm pivot to spindle debacle on the vpi’s with 10/10.5 arms as it relates to the mint ... he said 259 is the standard, i measured 258, he sent me 259 protractor... is all this due to 1 mm off on protractor angle???

last night i played with the alignment again and used vpi jig again played a little with cart ’twist’ angles... going back to vpi settings seems to have helped inner groove distortion

ugh confusing...
"PERFECT" Alignment" has eluded my Classic setup for years.

I waffle between the supplied jig, Feikert with/without A.S.
Things sound great, but now and then, vocals get a little out of control. These same records sound spectacular on a show rig, so it leads me to believe it's my cart alignment off by a hair

Just can't get myself to lug the Classic to a dealer for a "Professional" setup.

I agree that the Mint is a very valuable setup tool, however, the Fozgometer and its accompanying disc is as valuable as well. The rod on the arm method is very approximate, and doesn't usually work to give all the air, dynamics, depth, etc. (unless you're lucky) that can be had.
jjss49 -
My S2P distance was off by 2 mm max resulting in unresolvable sibilance. Whether 1 mm makes an audible difference? Possibly but probably not the problem you are having anyway. If you can align the two null points simultaneously and the cantilever is exactly parallel to the lines, you’re OK.
Anti skate is a good bet as well as VTF. Set it on the high side. If you’re using a scale on the platter, the unipivot arm will be a tenth or two lighter at the record height. Azimuth and VTA "should" be near parallel with the platter. I use a Millennium Block to set the headshell (not the arm) parallel to the platter from both side and front, then dial in azimuth and VTA by ear. FWIW I have a Fozgometer and never use it. It requires dialing in by ear also and since the Block gets me in the ballpark way sooner, why bother? The key to it all is going back and re-checking everything after any adjustment and repeat, repeat, repeat until it’s right. It will take way more than an hour the first time.
wlutke....how do you know if the diamond was installed at its optimal position.  Chances are quite good its off - you can only tell and then adjust  with the Foz.