The condition of the amp is OK at best if you look closely at the pics. It is an MKI, not II, and it is only getting older. Perhaps it will sell for $2000? I paid far less for an upgraded RM9 3 years ago. Good amp, but built on a circuit board with the tube sockets also on the board. This is not the ideal way to build an amp. I do much prefer point to point.
Help me get started again. Tube amp...
I had a full on audio addiction up until about 10 years ago when my first child entered the world and my priorities changed.
Now as my kids are spending more time with their friends and in activities I find my time at home wishing I had a system to appreciate.
Luckily I still have some little Stirling Broadcast LS3/5a V2 tucked in a corner, a nice little passive preamp stored in a drawer and a sudden CD player that has been playing Disney music faithfully.
I need pair a tube amp and I may even get some Vinyl.
My first little tube amps (which I sold here and wish I still had them) were VTL tiny triodes (the late version) and then I had fun playing with all kinds of ST-70 circuits. The VTL was better but rolling up my sleeves and redoing the ST-70s was great.
Since I have been out so long I have no clue what is what. I could use some direction for a lower priced tube amp to get me started.
It was recommended to me to look for Audion 300B Silver Knight mono-blocks or Rogers E-20 or E-40 amps from Doug Stirling. Finding these is perhaps not as easy in good working order and at a cost I like.
Any thoughts on how to best start up my addiction again?
Now as my kids are spending more time with their friends and in activities I find my time at home wishing I had a system to appreciate.
Luckily I still have some little Stirling Broadcast LS3/5a V2 tucked in a corner, a nice little passive preamp stored in a drawer and a sudden CD player that has been playing Disney music faithfully.
I need pair a tube amp and I may even get some Vinyl.
My first little tube amps (which I sold here and wish I still had them) were VTL tiny triodes (the late version) and then I had fun playing with all kinds of ST-70 circuits. The VTL was better but rolling up my sleeves and redoing the ST-70s was great.
Since I have been out so long I have no clue what is what. I could use some direction for a lower priced tube amp to get me started.
It was recommended to me to look for Audion 300B Silver Knight mono-blocks or Rogers E-20 or E-40 amps from Doug Stirling. Finding these is perhaps not as easy in good working order and at a cost I like.
Any thoughts on how to best start up my addiction again?
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- 53 posts total
Yep Chris, completely agree. If I had found an RM-9 Mk.2 first I would have gotten it instead of the RM-200 Mk.2. On the other hand, I like that Modjeski gets 100 watts out of only a single pair of tubes in the 200, and that those tubes are KT88's (the amp can also be run with 6550's). And he does so without running the tubes hot, Roger placing low maintenance high on his list of priorities. In that regard, I'm with grannyring---the chassis mounting of the tubes on the 200 is a big plus for me. I still plan on getting the great little RM-10 for my old Quads, THE amp for that speaker. |
Bdp24 Curious if there is another tube amp out there available other than the rm200 - any design - that is able to put out more power going from 8 ohms to 4 ohms ? Does anyone know ? RM200 from owners manual tapped on 8 ohms. 8-Ohm Load ......4-Ohm Load ........2-Ohm Load 112 Watts ..........145 Watts............ 125 Watts ************************************* Grannyring Amp Modder 1 - changes out parts old for new with no change in design. Amp Modder 2 - changes out parts old for new and makes design changes like no pcb. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;image=62509 Amp Modder 3 - changes out parts old for new; determines that existing pcb design works well, and puts money into other design changes. http://usr.audioasylum.com/images/y2014/10/120572/amp.jpg All RM10'S are still PTP . |
- 53 posts total