Sanders magtech or odyssey kismet

bdp24,
your post referencing member Satie & his amp output power was indeed illuminating to me.
yeah, the Tympanis want some real power, eh!

PArasound is a good choice for a brute amp at a reasonable price. Here are 2 choices that might fit:

https://www.parasound.com/vintage/hca2200.php

http://www.parasound.com/vintage/hca1500a.php

needless to say they are both discontinued but the HCA in the model number tells its a high-current output esp. the 2200 - 2 toroidal xformers.

this one might be even better:

http://www.parasound.com/vintage/hca3500.php

but I think the best route for you is very likely a class-D power amp - small size & most of them can output large wattages. Seeing a 500W/ch into 8 Ohms in a diminutive size is quite the norm these days. If you are looking for 2500W/ch into 4 like Satie has you are going to go broke if you try to get a class-A/class-AB amp. The only amps that i know of that output such large wattages are frightfully expensive (think Boulder, MBL, Rowland's new Daemon integrated, Gryphon).  

Right you are Bombay, the high end powerhouse amps cost as much as my whole system. Plus, I really don’t need a well-rounded amp with great sound in all octaves (I have a real nice amp for the Tympani's M/T drivers), just a great low end brute---muscular and tight-assed! The DIY subwoofer crowd guys all use Pro amps, but they aren’t audiophiles, with our cultured, refined tastes, and discriminating audio palates ;-). Satie IS an audiophile (purist analog lover, with a tube amp on the M/T panels of his Tympani’s), and the Crown he has on his T-IV bass panels is the discontinued Macrotech 5002VZ. He advises against the cheap and popular XLS line, so maybe I can find a 5002VZ used.

Satie IS an audiophile (purist analog lover, with a tube amp on the M/T panels of his Tympani’s), and the Crown he has on his T-IV bass panels is the discontinued Macrotech 5002VZ.

ok. what did he do about the mismatched input sensitivity of the tube amp vs. the Crown? Or, are the input send of both amps the same or very similar so that they both output max power at about the same input voltage level? 
My understanding is that if the inp sensitivity of both amps is different you could end up with too little bass or too much bass....

Can’t speak for everyone that actively bi-amps, but- I’ve always used a crossover that enables me to adjust for disparities between amps. My first was one I built using DeCoursey boards(1980), for my home system. I ended up selling that whole system to one of my regular shoppe customers. Used a Dahlquist DQ-LP1(modded), for the next 25 years. I’ve had my TacT RCS 2.2Xaaa(modded) ever since.  I loved the Dahlquist, but- the acoustic nightmare in which I'm now forced to listen REALLY requires me to use room correction.