Can a Magnepan 1.6 be BI AMPED?


Was wondering if anyone who owns the Mag 1.6 speakers knows if the speaker can be BI AMPEDped? I know it can be bi wired, but looking at the rear connection panel has me wondering if both terminals arent hard wired to the top terminal, allowing the two lower terminals to touch internally causing possible issues with bi amping.

Please dont respond the following receiver wont drive them, because I fully know it will. My concern is ONLY on bi amping on the speaker end. Ive bi amped so seriously hard to drive speakers and the Onkyo is more then up to the task. Specially considering I will be crossing the 1.6 over to ease the demands, and I only prefer a sub to do the grunt work. But for reference sake, here is my intentions with the Onkyo:

Im using a Onkyo nr906 right now on a pair off mmg's set to 4ohm, and they sound fantastic with a sub crossed over at 80hz. I have the ability to use the rear channels from the Onkyo in a bi amp configuration to drive a pair of 1.6's in bi amp config in a dual 4 ohm load. Should be 200 watts aprox to top and 200 watts aprox to bottom, and allow me to use the full potential of the nr906 if bi amping works in this speaker.

Thanks to anyone that has knowledge of if the 1.6 accepts bi amp config or just bi wire(which if they in fact touch internally to the top terminal, isnt worth bi wiring anyway, as its one big loop either way).
sthomas12321
HiFi,
Maggies, the 1.6s in particular are indeed, not a 'bad' load. People that call them such look at impedance and sensitivity without looking at the 3rd leg of load evaluation. ANY amp with reasonable current into 4 ohms will be able to drive 'em. Some, of course, better than others. YMMV?
Phase Angle of these panels is moderate from hi to low.
Please look (if you haven't already!) at the link provided by AlMarg to the Stereophile measured data panel. This clearly shows the phase data. If you are curious, write back and I'll BRIEFLY go over the math. It is very simple and will be an eye opener. All you need is a scientific calculator, either handheld or the free one with Windows or Mac. No rocket science here, either.
The DCR of EACH driver of the 1.6 is 4.5ohms, +-0.1 ohm. This includes the lopass inductor of 0.4ohms.

As a sidenote, reviews seem to encourage the low impedance as bad load philosophy. There is simply not enough measured data for people to think otherwise. The only source of real, measured data is Stereophile which has been publishing this data for years. I don't know how long! Speakers which have both a low impedance dip AND a large phase angle are generally identified as 'bad' loads. The 1.6s don't.

And, if that isn't enough, I don't see the 0.1uf 'bypass' cap in my crossovers. I peeked, using a strong flashlight and I don't see 'em. Both schematics I have show 4 hipass caps totaling 22uf. Both my speakers have 21.9uf.
I was told by someone who should know if anyone knows that the 1.6 dual inputs are just there because people kept asking to be able to biwire, but they are not actually separate inputs and internally go to the same place. The 3.6 and above can be actually bi-amped w/active crossover and other configurations, but from what I was told the dual input on the 1.6 is just for those that believe in biwiring.
Lightminer...Whoever told you that had never had the X/O apart!

Magfan...I used Hovland capacitors. There is considerable opinion that Solons are not bad at all, and, as you say, any improvement would come at high cost. I didn't know what kind of capacitors were in the MG1.6 when I ordered parts for the project.

My air core inductors are AWG10, so the DCR is lower than stock. The effect on crossover frequency is insignificant. Crossover frequency is somewhat arbitrary anyway.

The bypass capacitor is really there. It is a small ceramic which you probably can't see through the cloth.
Magfan,Thanks for the offer,but I'll pass on the math part.Years ago I used to change the tweeters and crossovers in a lot of speakers.I did a lot of math back then and used to get a good sized headache.Some did turn out a lot better,after I got the crossovers correct,maybe? Thinking about it gives me another headache.A friend had a pair of Apogee Scintilla'a that were the worst pair of speakers to drive that I've ever seen.They cooked one of his power amps.I think some people tie those to other panel speakers.Another friend has a pair of older Maggies that he now drives(just found out last night) with a Conrad Johnson EL34 tube amp with ease he said.Its his two channel music/home-theater system in his bedroom.He said it is sounding great. Best Regards
HiFi,
Ok, I'll skip the math! Most people don't do numbers well, as you could tell if you could see my checkbook!
However, I DO urge you to google 'Power Factor' and just look at the Wikipedia article. This will give you and others a basic understanding of PF and why phase angle can be an amp killer.
Personally, the 'online calculator' for various things is a lifesaver.