Can a Magnepan 1.6 be BI AMPED?


Was wondering if anyone who owns the Mag 1.6 speakers knows if the speaker can be BI AMPEDped? I know it can be bi wired, but looking at the rear connection panel has me wondering if both terminals arent hard wired to the top terminal, allowing the two lower terminals to touch internally causing possible issues with bi amping.

Please dont respond the following receiver wont drive them, because I fully know it will. My concern is ONLY on bi amping on the speaker end. Ive bi amped so seriously hard to drive speakers and the Onkyo is more then up to the task. Specially considering I will be crossing the 1.6 over to ease the demands, and I only prefer a sub to do the grunt work. But for reference sake, here is my intentions with the Onkyo:

Im using a Onkyo nr906 right now on a pair off mmg's set to 4ohm, and they sound fantastic with a sub crossed over at 80hz. I have the ability to use the rear channels from the Onkyo in a bi amp configuration to drive a pair of 1.6's in bi amp config in a dual 4 ohm load. Should be 200 watts aprox to top and 200 watts aprox to bottom, and allow me to use the full potential of the nr906 if bi amping works in this speaker.

Thanks to anyone that has knowledge of if the 1.6 accepts bi amp config or just bi wire(which if they in fact touch internally to the top terminal, isnt worth bi wiring anyway, as its one big loop either way).
sthomas12321
Hook them up and play them. Next, start saving for better amplification and cables...they are worthy:O)
When I had the 1.6 I made it a point to passively, vertically biamp them. It was a nice improvement. I am not into DIY or modding speakers, so this was a way to juice the performance. On an MMG I would suspect you will hear differences, of course mainly in the quality of the mids and highs. You should detect more "air", deeper soundstage and better clarity. Not in "boatloads", but maybe in "spades".

Some state that passive biamping is of little effect, while others say it's very worthwhile. There was to my ear a very noticeable change to the speaker's performance in my experience. Having used passive speakers with external Xovers (reviewed the Legacy Audio Helix), I can see where a modded Maggie would be considered even more enhanced.

Over time I experimented with more stout amplification and bi-wiring. I found that having a more robust amp and bi-wiring can yield even better results than using lesser amps and biamping. You owe it to yourself to secure possibly an older, well respected amp with some braun (i.e. doubles down into 4 Ohms, and maybe at least 150wpc at 8 Ohms) and see what you think. My guess is that you would be very surprised at the difference in sound of such an amp bi-wired versus the four channels of a receiver. :)
Based on my experience the only mod worth doing to the MG1.6 is to replace the internal stock iron core inductor with an air core inductor. This won't fit inside and needs to be mounted externally on the back.

I also replaced the capacitors, but this isn't worth the cost and effort.
Are you thinking the 906 is driving 696 sq in MMG's fine so I'll use another 2 channels of amplification to drive the extra 539 sq in's of the 1.6's?
Personally I'd keep the MMG's, they're working fine correct, and save up some money to upgrade the amp first then the preamp. My reasoning is the MMG's are very good in their own right and can handle upgrades of the amp/preamp in your system before you "upgrade" to the 1.6's.
I would upgrade to a better quality amp first and use the preamp section of the 906. When you save enough again you can upgrade to a higher quality preamp at which time you will experience how good the MMG's actually are then decided if the 1.6's are necessary!!
I say this because I had a Onkyo 905 in a HT system with 1.6's driven by an external 250 watt @ 8ohm amp it worked for HT but the quality of sound for 2 channel wasn't very good. Bottom line the preamp section of the Onkyo's are the weak link for 2 channel.
Caps in the stock 1.6 are Solon and can easily be bettered, but at a price. When going to an aircore inductor, you need to keep in mind that the issued inductor is 16 ga. of 0.4 ohms (DCR) To duplicate this inductor in an aircore requires 14 or 13 ga. wire, and of course, a bunch more of it! There are several online calculators, if you want to run some simulations.
Eldartford is correct. Unless you've got a jackhammer handy, you are into an external x-over.

Cap choice is very subjective. I'd be curious to know what caps 'Eld used in his mod. I'm about to pull the trigger on ClaritySA.
Don't forget that the wiring in the panel is pretty cheesy, too. A proper, fully detailed job can replace a bunch of wire and connections, get rid of the fuse and go to binding posts, if you want to be rid of the banana connectors. Go ahead and peek thru the crossover cover cloth on the backside. Bring a strong flashlight.

Go to *Magnepan Users Group* for a good afternoons read.