Tweeter recommendation close to MDT33

Thank you for chiming in Chipster. And you are correct. The vast majority of Morels you see of this model are paper. Perhaps that is why Carl takes this position. But, different designers have different preferences and reasons for doing what they do. Eggleston felt polypropylene superior. Reason given to me was that their test for a midrange driver was to play piano, very difficult to get right(try it sometime - and give it a REAL workout). The polypropylene was superior, due to the structural integrity of the material compared to paper. Less breakup. But a test using only one criteria cannot not tell everything. I have heard some speakers over the past two years that have featured paper cones because the designers found them to be more musical. Triangle would be the most recognizable. It could be that one who built an expensive speaker such as this feels that polypropylene was de riguer. May be even expected to use polymer cones to be taken seriously. I know I got into that mindset. That is dangerous, as to fall into the trap of dogma is limiting. I have built a bunch of speakers, and found polymer cones to be superior. But, in retrospect I have to rethink my position. It is sometimes rare to be able to be able to compare apples to apples. Historically, the driver manufacturers have had other advantages built into the polymer coned drivers, as they are usually part of a superior line. But, if all things were equal... I adamantly feel that speaker design(and every part of it) is by far the most fraught with disagreement. What is false today may become the truth of tomorrow. The one constant of the speaker hobby is change.

By the way Carl, if you need that article I could fax it to you. I have it right in front of me. Despite our disagreement, the content of the article is quite educational. A lot of insight into their philosophy(but a bit overboard on the praise). More so than any other Stereophile review I have read. And if you have further questions, the people at Eggleston(I presume their restarting the company has lasted) are fantastic. They will answer any, and I mean ANY question you have. And will even ask you for advice, preferences, and experience. They hooked me up with Swedac(dampens panel resonances). Wow, someone who actually will admit that they don't have all the answers and are learning every day(just like all of us).

Trelja and Carl this one here is been so one sided it is a joke. Trelja you just keep coming back time after time with facts and expreirience and knowledge. I have to say it was an absolute knockout not even a contest. And he can't even use his usual nastiness and know it all ways with you because you just hit him with the facts he's got nothing to come back at you with. See how he turns the whole thing around and won't even talk about your tweeter recommendation. I used to think you were a zero but you're ok.

I am sickened by your personal hatred of me, Ikinat. It is not deserved. We are discussing drivers here, and not people. Unless you have something to add to the discussion, you ought to just read, and not take cheap shots. If Audiogon had any credibility with applying their rules to everyone equally, your post would be deleted.

Ehider, I hope you proceed with your project; using one of the tweeters from the Vifa D27TG line. I have personally found that they mesh extremely well with Seas midbass drivers. You could choose from either the P17(6.5") or P21(8") line(polypropylene with or without phase plug). The magnesium versions of these drivers w/copper phase plugs are used on some of THE finest speakers around(Hales, Coincident, etc.). The smaller one may be preferable if you're building a 3 way design, or will be using a strong subwoofer. You could also use a Morel driver. Morel 6" would be MW162, MW164, or MW166, 8" would be MW265 or MW266. Both companies may now have different versions(and part numbers) of these drivers. Pardon me as I am using 5 year old literature(last time I built anything with these parts - sorry). A simple first order crossover will sound very nice with this combination. Use a polypropylene and tin foil Rel or MIT cap on the tweeter leg. You may also want to bypass this with a polystyrene or teflon and copper foil cap(yields an excellent improvement for the money). For the woofer, I recommend a 12 gauge coil from North Creek or Alpha Core Goertz. The North Creek offers a more relaxed, liquid tone, Goertz is a bit more analytical sounding to me. Try this combination out. If the tweeter needs attenuation(depends on the midbass driver you mate with it), use a 1 - 3 ohm, 10 watt silicone coated wire wound resistor from Ohmite(or equivalent). Please do not use any other type of resistor, as these are the only ones I have come across that will not add the harshness, grunge, and distortion most people will expect from this tweeter. Buy the resistors from Mouser Electronics, as their prices are roughly a third($1.75 - $3) of the what the speaker suppliers will charge you. I presume you are going to be using solid state electronics. If that is the case, go with copper wire internally. If you know you will be using tubes, you may want to consider silver. Both Orca Design(20 ga.) and Home Grown Audio(22 ga.) sell excellent copper wire, the HomeGrown having teflon insulation(better). I recommend braiding enough wire to achieve 17 gauge to the tweeter, and 12 gauge to the woofer. Using the aforementioned parts, you will be able to build speakers for $125 - $200 that a manufacturer would sell for more money than you would care to believe. And you will not have to worry about power handling. Good Luck with your project!