ZeroDust still the best?

I was under the impression that if one uses the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser; the final step was to use the Zero Dust in order to make sure no fibers are carried by the needle?

FYI: STYLUS CLEANING – LIKE MAGIC!

I own a ZeroDust, an XtremePhono and some liquid stylus cleaners, but I don’t use them anymore. Why? Because none of them works as well as a product I bought at the supermarket for a few pennies. I've been using this product to maintain my cartridges since 2004. Their styli and cantilevers have never been cleaner.

So what is this piece of magic? It’s called the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (ME for short). You’ll find it with the household cleaning products. Two dollars will buy enough ME to make hundreds of stylus cleaners, enough for many lifetimes.

ARE YOU KIDDIN’ ME?

Search the archives on Audiogon and Vinyl Asylum, you'll find hundreds of testimonials.

WHAT’S WRONG WITH THOSE EXPENSIVE STYLUS CLEANERS?

Jonathon Carr of Lyra explains that heat and friction from the stylus-vinyl interface leave a layer of vinyl molecules (and probably other contaminants) bonded to the stylus after each side. This layer must be removed or it will continue to accrue. At first this layer will only be visible under a strong (200x) microscope. As the buildup thickens with additional plays the stylus gradually turns cloudy, gray or yellow. The sonic degradation from this buildup is gradual but progressive. High frequencies slowly disappear, since the stylus can no longer trace the finest groove modulations. Micro-dynamics are slowly impaired and the sound goes dull. If the layer gets thick enough mis-tracking will occur.

Gels and goops will not remove this layer. They aren't aggressive enough. Liquids won't remove it unless they contain alcohol or other solvents that are dangerous to some cartridge suspensions and stylus/cantilever glues. What's needed is something that will physically abrade that gunk loose without doing damage.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

By abrasion. The venerable Scottish turntable maker Linn used to supply strips of very fine sandpaper. That works, but a properly used ME is easier and more effective for daily use. Modern materials science has created a product that is compliant enough to clean all sides of a stylus, yet abrasive enough to remove even stubborn contaminants.

There’s a good article and a photo here, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine_foam. (Note: the article states the ME should be used wet. This is true for normal cleaning tasks but not for stylus cleaning. See the instructions below.)

As you can see, the ME is made up of micro-fibers arranged in an open mesh. This airy structure lets the fibers flex around a stylus and contact every surface.

These fibers are sharply ridged and very hard, making the ME very abrasive on a microscopic scale. We’re talking about nearly molecular sized ridges; don’t go looking for them with your pocket magnifier!

HOW DO I USE IT?

Always dry brush with a stylus brush (back to front) before using the ME or any other stylus cleaner. There’s no point contaminating your stylus cleaner with loose fluff.

Use only the white portion of the ME. The blue portion contains detergents that could leave a residue.

Use the ME dry. Wetting the ME causes its open mesh to collapse into a denser bundle. That’s fine for scrubbing dried taco sauce off the stovetop, but a dense bundle won’t let a stylus penetrate into the ME to be rubbed by fibers on all sides.

There are two popular methods for using the ME. One is safer. The other cleans better. Get comfortable with the safer method before trying the better one but please note, the safer method alone may not be adequate over time.

SAFER METHOD

Cut a small, thin piece of ME and glue it to a coin or other thin, heavy object. Place this on the platter and dip the stylus straight down into the ME and back up, using the cueing lever. Dip it several times.

NEVER move the stylus or the ME sideways, forward or backward. Those interwoven fibers are grabby and strong. Once the stylus is inside the ME, moving any direction but straight up and down could separate stylus from cantilever or break the cantilever.

ALWAYS dry brush the stylus again after using the ME. It sheds pieces of itself easily and these are very abrasive. You don’t want them on your vinyl. Some people ZeroDust or XtremePhono at this stage, to be extra sure.

BETTER METHOD

Slice off a small, thin wedge of ME and stick it on a toothpick. The pointy end of the wedge should be VERY thin. It should flex easily under the slightest pressure.

After dry-brushing, dunk the stylus into the ME a few times or bring the ME up to the stylus and back down, as in the safer method. Then use the thin end of the wedge to scrape along the cantilever and around all sides of the stylus. BE CAREFUL. Do not apply any force; the ME will do the work. If you see the cantilever deflect you’re pushing too hard.

ALWAYS finish with a dry brushing, ZeroDust or XtremePhono, as discussed above.

Used regularly, this method will remove all traces of the vinyl buildup layer. I have styli with over 1,000 hours on them whose color and clarity under a microscope are indistinguishable from new.


HOW OFTEN DO I USE IT?

After every side.

That layer of vinyl molecules attracts more gunk with every play. Don’t let it get started and your stylus will always be at its best.

IS IT SAFE?

Every stylus cleaning method involves risk. The ME uses no chemicals or solvents, so the risks are limited to operator error. Pay attention at all times.

I do know of two ME-related disasters, both involving Lyra cartridges that lost their styli. In the same time period a third Lyra owner lost a stylus while cleaning with Lyra’s own (liquid) stylus cleaner. Conclude what you will. I’m inclined to think Lyra’s methods for affixing styli to cantilevers might need improvement. I’m unaware of ME-related problems with any other cartridges.

DISASTER RECOVERY

I have seen two severely neglected styli which the ME could not clean. Each had been played for a year or more with no maintenance other than dry brushing. This allowed the accumulating vinyl particles to get burnished on so thoroughly that more aggressive measures were needed. I didn’t have any Linn sandpaper around so I faked it. A slip of 2000 grit silicone carbide paper (sold at auto parts stores for paint finish repair) was all it took. One or two swipes with that on each surface of the stylus, followed by the ME followed by a dry brushing and those styli were crystal clear again. I reserve this technique for desperate cases, but it works beautifully.

Joe55ag,
Great idea thanks for sharing.