Why Oh Why Isn't Anyone Building A Decent 2 Way Stand Mount Using

the 94db,8" Silver Flute woofer?Decware has a nice pair with low end HiVi ribbon tweeter but I prefer a soft dome...Seems like a prime candidate when compared to single driver hi eff...Anyone know of a good soft dome that might work well with it?
Without spending lots of money and you said you prefer a soft dome.I would look at this tweeter and do your crossover points at 2.5k to 3k and call it a day.The horn loading will give you a little bigger sweet spot.

Good luck,
@freediver I agree with you on the Silver Flute drivers.  Both the 6.5" and 8" represent tremendous value for money.

I have several Silver Flute tweeters (and a pair of 10" woofers), and in addition to not matching at all cosmetically, they really don't stack up to the aforementioned drivers.

These days, it's more difficult to find decent lower cost 8 ohm tweeters.  So in this case, I recommend the typical upper shelf tweeters used in more expensive implementations. I like the ScanSpeak offerings myself, but that's not to slight Dynaudio, Morel, Tymphany, etc.
Oops I didn’t paste,


It it all depends on your budget as mentioned,lots of good ones.
Unless that I moved to exotic materials,the Dynaudio Esotar is my fav for many yrs.

Ok guys this is getting interesting...I’m finding some nice tweeters,especially the Morel Elite448(8ohm/92db.)& Eton 28SD1(8ohm 91db.)...Can anyone tell me how putting a lower efficiency tweeter,say 91db.with the 94db.woofers affect final efficiency?
^^^Thats the 8ohm version,I’ll go with the 4ohm which is 94db.Although now you mention it I go just go with the 8ohm which is easy to match to a 91db.tweeter...
On a side bar I emailed Decware to see if they would build me a pair with one of the above tweeters...Fingers crossed because no one has a pre made cab big enough...
Silver Flute is a pretty respected driver—the diyaudio website has a lot of build threads using the 6.5” woofer- some with the 8”.  The main issue is getting either driver to play lower than 50 Hz—box modeling actually favors the 6.5” over the 8” for hitting lower frequencies.  There’s a very long build thread that uses the 6.5” and a scan-speak full range driver instead of a tweeter-  crossover point is around 300Hz if my memory serves me.  Better known as a FAST design- Full Range Assisted Subwoofer Technology.
^^^ Thats good to know..I was looking at the 6.5" because they Dayton Audio finished cabinet is readily available.I could use the 4ohm/ 91db model and there are several really nice 91/92.db.8 ohm tweeters making a sweet 6ohm combination...I never heard of DIYaudio.com,looks like my next stop to research how to choose the caps...
I also emailed Fritz (Fritz Speakers)to see if he would be interested in doing a pair in his "6.5" Morel"cabinets..His Accuton models use a really nice Magnesium/Ceramic tweeter that's 92 db.8ohms so I think he should be able to voice a pretty nice set up...
You’re best served by avoiding 4 ohm drivers if at all possible.

8 ohm loudspeakers present a much friendlier load to an amplifier, and will provide you with a project you can live with over the long run.

In regard to 6.5" vs 8", it depends on your project and the loudspeaker cabinet you will use. If you intend to use something to augment the low-end, a 6.5" will do a lot better. Conversely, if you intend to use this loudspeaker on its own, an 8" deserves some thought, even if some will disagree with me on that.

Finally, to address your previous question about pairing a mid/woofer of 94 dB (per 2.83V, I presume?) sensitivity with a tweeter of 91 dB...in the real world, that rarely occurs.  As for me, I've not faced that sort of situation in over 30 years of personal and corporate loudspeaker builds.  In the specific case you brought up, because it was a 4 ohm driver with its 8 ohm sibling offering 91 dB, without digging further, I'll guess the former is drawing twice the power, and hence the difference.  Comparing apples to apples, and that difference in loudness disappears.  In fact, with a lot of amplifiers, the 8 ohm can actually do better.  But for sake of argument, the first thing I'd want to look at is the actual SPL graphs, as manufacturers tend to slap a more than optimistic value on the actual spec, and the graph shows it as such.  By this I mean, a driver spec'd at 90 dB/watt may actually play at 85 dB for 90% or more of the area under the SPL curve.  But again for sake of argument, I would reduce / eliminate the resistors in the tweeter circuit to handle this scenario, and in fact have built loudspeakers without resistors on the tweeter leg.  Anyone who has listened to what a resistor does to the sound understands how much damage even the best of them (and capacitors an order of magnitude or two even worse) impart, so I would consider this a blessing

Quick question. Are you talking about the Decware 945DM?

If so, I’m using a set which are currently being driven by a Cary SLI-50. 

The speakers I’m using have the midrange option. 

Quite fond of these speakers. 


First off, if you’re going to build a two way with either Silver Flute woofer, you’re going to need a crossover for the woofer and the tweeter.  Trelja is correct; look closely at the SPL graphs of the drivers, and particularly the Fs (resonant frequency) of your tweeter- as a very general rule of thumb, you’re going to want to crossover at least 2 octaves beyond the tweeter’s Fs.  I strongly urge you to google diy designs-  there’s a lot to this.  Also, there’s free software that helps:  WinIsd that models box volume for ported and sealed designs, and Passive Crossover Designer which will guide you thru designing a proper crossover.
^^^ hi perkri,yes I was talking about the Decware DM945...I haven’t heard the tweeter it uses but didn’t care for the Martin Logan Motions so doubt I would like the Decware either..
As for a crossover Decware uses NONE & I'm reading several threads on DIYaudio of no crossover use so why do you say different?