why do hi-end fuses keep blowing, while std don't?


I've had my McIntosh MC275 for several years running flawlesly. Up until last Nov I was using stock KT88 and rolled small tubes and had a Hi-Fi Tunning fuse without issues.

In Nov-13 I upgraded the KT-88 to Psvane black bottles measuring 60mA plate current. A few power-ons after I rolled the tubes, I turned on the amp to let it warm up, but returned to a blown fuse. I thought a tube might be bad so used a std fuse, but never had a problem again.

Two months ago I bought a new high-end fuse, replaced it, and soon thereafter the same happened: blown fuse. I replaced it with a std fuse again, which is still running.

So I want to upgrade the fuse, but chances are if I use the 2A fuse it will happen again. Yet I don't want to use a higher value fuse. I'm thinking the Psvanes might be drawing significantly more current than the stock KT88 and the Hi-Fi Tunning fuse might have a tighter spec, driving said fuses to fail while the std ones survive. Would you agree?

Suggestions as to how to resolve this?

thanks much!
lewinskih01

Showing 2 responses by davidpritchard

My Zana Deux OTL headphone amp had the same problem. I discussed this with Craig Uthus the amp designer who had me go to the next size up in fuse value. I went from a 2.5 to 3 amp rating. My blow fuses ocurred at start up or shortly there after. This ocurred after some tube rolling.
I have three Pass Lab amplifiers - the Int-60, the First Watt F7, and the headphone amp HP-1. All have been upgraded with Synergistic Research Blue fuses. All sound much better with the Blue fuse. I have been in direct contact with Pass Labs and have never been given any negative reaction to this upgrade.
David Pritchard