Which Rel subwoofer


I have a pair of Dynaudio C-1 and I'm trying to figure out what Rel sub to use. The two I'm looking at are the R-218 and the R-328. Does anyone have any experience with these Subs.
taters
I combine Dynaudio 1.3SE with R205 (succeeded by the R218 I think).
In my room (rather small : 24 m2 +/- 250 ft2)it works fine.
If your room is larger and presuming the C1 has better bass than the 1.3SE, perhaps the R-328 is a better choice.
I'm not familiar with either of those but I have a Rel B3. Great combo but I did replace the stock Rel cable. Better attack and decay. Which C1's do you have? Originals or MKII/Sig? When I upgraded from the original to the Sigs I had to cross over the Rel a little lower to keep the sound 'balanced'.
I think there very over priced for performance given.
All I can say is I've had several RELs and had reliability issues, stay away from REL!
Xti-16

I have the original C-1.
12-12-12: Sksos1
"All I can say is I've had several RELs and had reliability issues, stay away from REL!"

I've had a REL Q401 for about five years with no reliability problems and have been very happy with it.
......I am also looking at the REL's.....R328 to match with my Sonus Faber Cremona M's. I plan on making this purchase after the Holidays. I would like to see what you do and think of the REL's.

Sksos1- we get it you don't like REL's and every thread about them you post the same message. Let it go....please
Sksos1,

There are a large number of REL models out in the world. Which did you have issues with?

And how was support from REL when these issues did come up?

Loved my REL Storm III when I had need of it. Best sub I have owned to date. (But also the highest end sub I have had to date).
Taters - Personally I would go with a sub that goes the lowest. Especially if you are trying to get what the C1's can't physically do then consider a crossover around 36 - 38 hz. I think you'll find there are not too many recordings that go much lower than what the C1's can do. OTOH if you were thinking of crossing over around 80 hz what you will get is what the C1's can't do BUT adding (probably doubling) to what is already there and may sound real boomy. In that case I would recommend any sub or one that doesn't go very low at all.

I asked which C1's you had because of your response to Pass XA 30.5 with C1 sigs thread. 100w tube amp and wanting more power. Even when I had the originals both the Octave V40se and V70se are more than enough power (even when using EL34 output tubes). What amp do you have? Also for me I don't listen loud and the MKII/Sig is as good or better than the originals when cranked up to sound the best. That being said the MKII/Sig may not actually get as loud (but super close) as the originals before bottoming out.
Xti-16,

I listen very loud so that is why I feel I need more power. If I listened at a low level I would have enough power.My Amp is a Audio Research VT-100MKIII.
Very happy with the Stadium III and Dynaudio Contour S1.4S. Great extension, improves soundstage, and dissapears.
BTW i have an upgraded McCormack 225/RLD-1.
Nice amp :)
Before I spent that much coin on the REL-328, which really just adds a sharp spike at 45 Hz, I'd give a hard look and listen to the REL Fathom F110. It's not much more money, and can be had for well under list. The Fathom goes lower, plays louder. integrates easily. and has a flatter, more extended response. The flatter, wider curve makes it easier to integrate.
Johnnyb you mean the JL Fathom F110. Yes the JL subs are special I went from the REL Stentors to a JL Fathom F113 and its faster, goes lower and has less distortion than the REL ever had. Plus no issues, the JL has worked flawlessly where I had reliability issues with the RELs.
The 'Q' series happened when REL was owned by REL. Things have
changed. I considered a REL to match my Abbys but, ultimately chose a
NSM 15EXP sub and am very pleased.
12-13-12: Sksos1
Johnnyb you mean the JL Fathom F110. Yes the JL subs are special I went from the REL Stentors to a JL Fathom F113 and its faster, goes lower and has less distortion than the REL ever had. Plus no issues, the JL has worked flawlessly where I had reliability issues with the RELs.

Yes, I certainly meant JL, not REL. That's what happens when I post something past my bedtime.

Anyway, I can't for the life of me understand why anyone would pony up $1800 for a sub that simply adds a steep spike centered at 44 Hz, and leaves it up to the user to move this one-trick pony around the room until you find enough room reinforcement to get the thing to add meaningful bass below 40 Hz.

Again, here's the REL R-328 response curve. Its peak output centers at 44 Hz. The spike is so sharp the response is -10dB at 30Hz and 90Hz. It's -27 dB (functionally MIA) at 20 Hz.

Here's the JL Fathom F110 response curve. It peaks at 40Hz but the curve is much flatter: It's at most -2dB at 30 and 60 Hz, -6 dB at 90 Hz. It's about -12dB at 20 Hz, which with any boundary reinforcement will be usable and audible.
I have the R-328 - excellent sub. My room is 16 x 24 or so, and it fills it with musical bass, and it integrates very well.
Taters,

REL makes the very best subwoofers.
If you want a new product- check out the "T" series.
If you want an older model -check out the "Britania"
series (B1,B2,B3)...all are killer subs!