I bi-amped my 801Ns using MC1000 for the low end and an MC2000 for the highs. The tubes really smoothed out the high end in my case. However, the lower power held down the MC1000's a bit. Also, you may need an amp with volume controls. I had to pad down the MC1000 amps as the bass was overpowering the highs. This was, by the way, after McIntosh told me that the two amps should match.
As always, YMMV.
What preamp would you be driving these amps with? The reason I ask is that your MC7270 has an input impedance of only 20K, and many of the current generation McIntosh solid state amps have input impedances of 22K, or even 10K in some cases. Driving 20K and 22K or less at the same time would be a problem for some preamps, especially tube preamps. That would be true in many cases even if the preamp provides two sets of output jacks.
On the other hand, the 47K input impedance of the current version of the MC275 (assuming you would be using its unbalanced inputs), in combination with the 20K input impedance of your MC7270, would be much less likely to be a problem. Although some would say that doing so might compromise coherence between the mid/highs and the lows, given that one amp would be solid state and the other a very different tube-based design.
If you cant try everything first, I wouldn't even consider doing it. Biamping like that, using different amps never sounds right. Every once in a while you may get lucky, but that's not the norm. If you're trying to deal with the tweeters on your 801's, there's more effective ways to do it.
Thanks.. : )
I have the McIntosh C29 Pre amp..which we bought new back then.
The Amps may not be compatable using the Mc7270 Solid state together with a recent Mc275 in biAmp set up..and you suggest a solid state to match instead ?
Boy..I thought getting the tube spirit directed at the tweeters & mid a good thing.
Thanks : )
I should not bother the Tube idea for Mids/Highs right..?
I always fancied the look of that Tube thing (Mc275)..and thought if its the same effect as it is in my guitar amps maybe more musical in those intricacies but if it makes no audio sense to do it.What do you suggest as alternative,maybe in a McIntosh amplifier?
The C29 is rated to be able to drive a 10K load, so impedance matching would not be an issue if you chose one of the solid state McIntosh models having a 22K input impedance. Driving 22K and 20K in parallel corresponds to a load impedance that would be seen by the preamp of about 10.5K.
Personally, though, I agree with ZD. Rather than biamp, it would probably be better to just replace your present amp with one powerful recent generation solid state amp.
Good luck. Regards,
When I bought this pair of 801 Nautilus in October (used) I saw they needed a special little wire to hook up the terminals which i didn't have..looking into more reviews and more deeply it seems the speakers (from what i read), were designed to be BiAmped..The guy I bought speakers from had a couple of Tube Amps on the Floor & I think another Amp in his rack.So I figured that must be so.
So till this day speakers sit there wrapped up and unconnected as it has taken me this long to decide and bring myself to sell my unused new in box MA6500 Integrated Amp to buy the other amp required for biAmping.I never even knew what BiAmping meant and still barely do. I thought the alternative was just getting another Amp & run em in Mono..but I dont really need any more power. The 801F's i've have had since 1987 and about to replace,were much more inefficient but way loud enough with the 270 Watts per Channel.
Hopefully the new 801N is actually an upgrade to the 801F cause they sound pretty much like the most natural accurate speaker Id ever heard.
"So till this day speakers sit there wrapped up and unconnected as it has taken me this long to decide and bring myself to sell my unused new in box MA6500 Integrated Amp to buy the other amp required for biAmping.I never even knew what BiAmping meant and still barely do. I thought the alternative was just getting another Amp & run em in Mono..but I dont really need any more power. The 801F's i've have had since 1987 and about to replace,were much more inefficient but way loud enough with the 270 Watts per Channel."
Given the above, you really need to just hook everything up and see how it sounds. You're not going to hurt anything. Just connect a pair of speaker cables to either the top or bottom set of binding posts on each speaker. I usually use the top, but it really doesn't matter. And then just jump the 2 pairs of binding posts with small pieces of speaker wires. You're not doing anything that's wrong, or will harm the speaker. If you were to ask B&W, they would tell you that fine to connect them this way. Then, I would just unbox your MA6500 and let everything warm up and break in. Spend some time with it and just see how it all sounds. I've heard B&W with McIntosh many times, and while I don't really care for B&W, its one of the better matches I've heard for those speakers.
As far as using separate tube amps for the highs, its still a bad idea. Its like buying an EQ with only 1 setting. If it doesn't work, its becomes a trap. You'll just keep buying stuff to try and make it sound OK. The tone controls on your MA6500 will be far more effective at dealing with the highs. If you take the time to hook all this up and give it a chance, I think you'll be pretty happy with the results. After you've had a chance to spend some time with your system, assess where you think the system needs improvements, and make whatever adjustments you need to (if any). More likely than not, I think you'll get away with spending little, to no money.
The MA6500 Integrated Amp was not for this it was for a separate system we were going to do in another room hooked up to tv..never used it once we got a tv (5 years later) and realized we didn't like anything they play on TV ..nor the $100 cable bill,and so we dont need MA6500.
We are very slow in doing things : (
We use the McIntosh C29 PreAmp and a Mc7270 for the stereo.
I had B&W 803ds and they sounded better to me with the more power I gave them. Had one MC352 switched to 2 MC352s bi-amped and this was better. Then went to MC601 monos. This was best for me. My experience is that B&Ws love lots of power.
You mean two 1000 Watt mono block amps with yet more power for mid/highs ?
And they (a pair of 801N)sounded better with all that running into them ?
This is what B&W said about my "predicament"
Bi-amping has been observed to improve the performance of loudspeakers, however the benefit will only be realised if identical amplifiers are used for both sections.
If differing amplifiers are used, as in your case solid-state 270w Vs. tube amp 75w, the overall timbre balance and voicing of the speaker will be severely compromised and offer no advantage over that of the single amplifier method - the close knitting of the drive units and integration will be come disturbed by feeding differing performance of sounds to the differing sections of the loudspeakers, the coherency will no longer be seamless, almost disjointed in delivery.
If in doubt, consider bi-wiring which reduces the distortions generated within the loudspeaker circuit, revealing more detail; otherwise masked by the bass drivers associated back EMF.
I was ok selling off my unused un need MA6500 Integrated Amp to get the amp needed to BiAmp..
But I'm definitely not keen on selling off my MC7270 to start from zero as the Amp is excellent.
So how to enhance performance..another 7270 ??
If I was wealthy Id get a pair of MC2000's and see if I like em better but till then..
B&W's advice is very good. They explain the sound that you will get very well. As long as you have an amp that has no problem driving your speakers, and doesn't make any big mistakes sonically, you should bet a much bigger jump in sound quality be upgrading your preamp. It makes a very big difference.