Where is the best place to store electronic parts?

Since the last major modification of my VTL amps there are too many valuable and good parts left. Moreover, I plan to restore some more vintage units for secondary(probably 100%DIY system.)

Now keeping everything knit among all the electronic parts(which I certainly will preserve for future projects) becomes an issue.

How would you store a vacume tubes if there is no dedicated carton box?
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Individually wrap them in small bubble wrap and put them in zip-loc baggies. The use of a small "moisture absorbing pack" might also be useful. Then toss them into a shoe box or something else that is appropriately sized. You can label them on the outside of each bag or on their individual wrapper so you can see what is what at a glance. This offers physical protection from breakage along with minimizing the potential for corrosion of the contact pins while keeping things relatively convenient. Sean
Storing tubes? -
Bubble wrap is great and so are those plastic tubs that have contained vitamin tablets - great for postage too.
Cool, dark, dry place in addition to above.
Store them at my house!
I try to let the store keep the extra parts !!!
Saves $$$$$
A combination of Sean and Timo's comments is fine!
I just transferred my collection of (mostly) 9 pin minis to a plastic tackle box. You can fit 4 6922s or 12AX7s in each small compartment and I put the few EL34s and 6v6s into the larger slots, then there is the whole bottom for bigger things. Course, on ebay you occassionally see the TV repair tube carriers for sale, sometimes even full of tubes. But right now I don't have nearly that many that I would need something that big.
Not to get entirely off your subject here, but which VTL's do you have, what mods have you done to them, and with what results?
I have VTL MB100 and I did change the diode rectifiers to IXYS bridges for main and bias supplies;Caddock power-dropping resistors instead of stock ones;Black Gate electro by-pass and Cathode de-couplers; Relcap RTX for coupling capacitors;Large and fast Ulytic film filter caps instead of stock electrolitycs.

Also ceramic sockets;Chasis damping with EAR products(front faceplate, top lid and PC-board)

Implementing a MUTE switch with 10Ohm/50W resistor(my own needs for that)

Re-arranging a circuit for 12BH7A input tube(the same as splitter one) like in bigger VTLs.

Threading through non-detachable VanDenHul Mainstream Hybrid powercord with Marnico locking plugs.

Re-arranging the amps to 220V operation due to already existing dedicated line in my appartment that is certainly had been hooked up with hosp-grade locking receptackles.

Results: expected higher ciruit stability and i expect tubes to last much longer; definitely higher signal to noise ratio is in effect already compared to the previous;SPEED!;Hum dissapeared almost completely and only audiable with maximum preamp volume settings!

Now amps are undergoing different stability tests with signal generator that I usually set up for some low-end extreams in order to be sure that I can play with extreams when I hook up speakers.
Until than I listen to them not at high volume levels in triode mode and they seem to deliver much more detail with much greater clarity than before. Bass a-bit shallow but I believe that after some play time it will go deeper. If I will need deeper bass after all I know I have to increase the feedback a-little which is not a big deal and can be done without dissassembling the amp (except bottom cover certainly)

Overal replaced elements are about 50 for both monos.
Forgot to mention that there was either the surge but I'd rather suspect due to te bad coupling capacitor the bias current increased to dramatic levels and burned PC-board along with the signal leads.

That pushed me to implement modifications on both monos beyond tracing and fixing the main problem.

Now the next project I have is McIntosh MC2505 Right Channel DC problem. Boght for a-little and will fix. If I decide to keep it for myself for bi-amp will probably modify.