I don't know, but it does. How could there be more than that?
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Warren, I have heard somewhere on this forum, that there is a cable renting company, where you can try out different cables for a fee. I think the only way to satisfy yourself on this matter is to try one or two, and see for yourself, without spending alot of money to do it.
I don't use these things myself, because I use battery power for everything. So I can't comment on them directly, but alot of people like them.
And because people can't explain them, does not mean that they don't work. I can't explain the existence of the universe, but we're all here, right? Explanations are not needed for something to work.
At any rate, I suggested a low cost solution that will allow you to decide for yourself.
Power cords do make a difference, and I'm sure everyone will agree. However, the why and how is up in the air. I believe that the perfomance changes (changes, not necessarily improvements) are due to EMI/RFI shielding. You can have the most sophisticated power filter and yet it goes to naught if the PC's from the filter to the equipment pick up, or contaminate things with, electric fields. This is what ultimately reduces the noise floor making your equipment perform better.
And, as far as so-called power delivery, I do not see nor can I physically explain why ads claiming current delivery is dramatically improved by providing silver, cryo'd copper, fatter wires, etc. Personally, I think it's a waste of material - your power draw is limited by (working backwards) the outlet, the branch wiring, the breaker element, the panel bus, the panel lugs, the service wire (which feeds other circuits), and the meter pan (a piece of flimsy tin-coated copper). The only thing this PC will further reduce is the miniscule voltage drop over the last 6-feet; the power supplies can easily absorb it. For that $1,000 I'd replace the outlet, replace the branch wire with a heavier one and spend what's left on a well shielded PC. The trick is to reduce the losses as far back in the chain as practical, as you'll never get them back no matter how exotic the PC.
So, when trying out power cords, listen and see what they do for you. Yes, they'll certainly make a difference - but you can get just as good results over a wide range of products that are considerably cheaper than others. Let the ears decide - not the price tag.
Might I suggest you try a DIY Belden 83802 PC? I assemble such a KIT with fine connectors, outer sheath and easy instructions (NO SOLDERING!) for only $33 and $7 sh. for a five footer. This great 2x12AWG in pure Teflon, fully-shielded makes GREAT dedicated lines, as well, at $2.50/ft, or $200/100' spool. For $40 you could try one and get marked improvement in a reduced noise floor, better dynamics, and enhanced upper end detail. If you don't concur you won't be out much, and won't have to bother renting one of those $1k PCs that don't necessarily sound better! Let me know. Ernie 781 483-3922
Erinie, your cables are definitely less expensive than my Lat International, but how are they different. Mine are of the same (maybe 10 gauge, actually)materials. How would yours be different than what I have now. Mine, did, cost $170 each,so there we have a major difference. (I'm behind the eightball already with that) Lats website has their stats. Let us know what the deal is with an AB stat comparison. Thanks in advance. warren
Warren, I got your email before seeing this post, and have already answered you in length. To repeat, the LAT appears very similar to the Belden 83802, except for the annealed silver layer. This should provide a lucid top, which the Belden has in spades (no pun). Both are in pure Teflon, but the Belden has the better shield. The LAT is 10AWG, so will have an advantage in LONG PCs for high-current Class A amps, for example. For a commercial product, the LAT seems reasonable at $170, and maybe a nice deal at $100 used.
Yet a DIY 83802 Kit for $33 is pretty attractive, eh?
I'd be interested in your comments following a CAREFULLY-run comparison. Cheers.