The pronto with RF will not solve your problem because it's still going to send the arcam commands to the IR flasher on the Krell. The only remotes that I know of that lets you address each IR flasher independently are the crestron and the Anpex panels. It would be cheaper to return the arcam and buy the krell.
The RF will have no effect on your problem. The RF is simply a relay to it's base. You will still have the same issue unfortunately.
Thanks for the quick replies.
I don’t won’t to sell the Arcam or the Krell It’s just crazy that you can’t just get a remote to control both units individually.
I have been reading a lot of remote forums and web sites “Bloody hell didn’t know there was so much to learn about remotes”, Is there any body out there that could program a Philips ProntoPro TSU6000 to work my Krell components and my Arcam DVD player, would pay if needed..
Once again, the pronto TSU6000 won't work because you can NOT address the IR flashers individually. Rives audio and I have both given you the same answer, yet I guess you have your mind set on the pronto. I have programmed the pronto in the past and I'm sure sure Rives audio has had experience with them.
Don't take our word for it. Go out and spend the $1200 for the unit and pay the $600-$1000 to have it professionally programmed. And, when it doesn't solve your problem, send me an email so I can give you a "I told you". Sorry to get rough, but it doesn't look like your paying attention.
The cheapest remote that I know of that lets you address IR flashers is the Crestron ST1550C. The last I checked the the suggested retail price was around $4000 with the ST-CP control processor, which has 4 addressable IR ports. Add in $1200-2000 for custom programming and it would be cheaper to buy another player. How about the Linn Unidisk?
It won't work. If you want the IR control of both the Arcam and the Krell, you need to be able to generate different IR signals going into each. You can get little individual emitters to stick on each component, but the pronto is still going to cause each of the emitters to emit the same IR codes at the same time. That is what prpixel is talking about--you need to be able to individually address each IR emitter. The pronto won't do that.
I have the same situation with my xport and CD burner. A solution I thought of (but haven't tried) would be to get 4 pieces of polarizing film. Cut one to fit each remote, and put them in with their axes 90 degress apart. Install the film on each device over the sensor so its axis is parallel to that on the remote.
Polarized film has the characteristic that, when the axes are parallel or nearly so, they allow full light through, but when their axes are perpendicular they block it almost completely.
Once you've done this, one remote should not affect the other device (unless you use it sideways!)
It's actually surprising that this type of problem doesn't occur more often. I have a Zenith TV and a Sony DVD where pressing fast forward triggers the Zenith's picture in picture function. It's a pain, but for me only a minor pain. Your cursor key/input selector problem seems far more serious. As others have said, the Philips Pronto will not solve this problem. You might want to contact a custom HT installer and see if they can configure a remote relay device with switching capabilities. Otherwise, and I know you don't want to hear this, get the matching Krell DVD player.
I had a creek pre-amp and a marantz cd. Same problem. Up volume also fast forewarded the cd.....
In you case, how about eliminating remote control from the dvd-just put a piece of tape over the ir eye.
The other choice is to locate the units far enough apart that the remote will only hit one at a time.
"In set up.." During setup cover the eye in the Krell with a small card to block it.
If this ONLY happens in setup mode, I would think it is hardly an everyday issue.
It is annoying but of the huge number of components with remote features I am suprised it does not happen far more frequently.
You can use a Xantech IR router like an RT8 (~$250, also requires a power supply, receiver, and emitters none of which are expensive) and program your universal remote so that it sends device selection codes before and after the offending commands.
Pronto .CCF files with the codes are available at remotecentral.com, for other learning remotes you might have to buy Xantech's programmer.
My theater/multi-zone control project involves netremote (A pocket PC application which can use .CCF files, and PC server which can do IR pass through) and a USB UIRT (USB IR receiver transmitter) - the hardware supports multiple IR zones although I don't know that the software does.
try the suggestion in Elizabeth's last post I believe it's your answer
I believe the Arcam allows you to actually change it's remote code in the set up menu. After doing this the arcam remote will no longer control the unit and that's why you would need to program the new codes into the Pronto. I believe that is the answer to your problem. The Arcam will have better Audio and video quality than the Krell and the DVD Audio is smokin' Good.
OK PEOPLE HERE”S THE DEAL!!
Spoke with mike from Audiophile systems (Main dealer for Arcam) very nice guy.
He explained that the Arcam uses a Code Set 25 (all command start out with the number 25) and that I can copy all the codes from another Arcam DVD player then edit the codes from a code set 25 to a #12 code set (change the # 25 to a 12) save the list and load in to the Pronto pro then go in to the “secret” screen in the Arcam DVD player and change it from a code set #25 DVD player to a code set #12 DVD player.
When completed you can now control the DVD and Krell components separately.
So PRPIXEL I guess I wont be hearing the “I TOLD YOU SO “speech.
Oh yeah I purchased a BRAND NEW FACTORY sealed ProntoPro TSU-6000 for $495.00 + Shipping so Prpixel I don’t know where you shop but I ain't going there!!
Cheers all for the Help :)
OK Spazz, you fixed your problem, that is great. But, prpixel is *still* right. You simply misdescribed the problem. You were the one who said Arcam said nothing can be done. Something can be done--they don't have to use the same codes. This should have been a no brainer for their customer service, so I'm not real impressed with Arcam's customer help.
What your dealer told you may be right. There are different IR code schemes, and some of them use a device code that precedes the command code for precisely this reason. Bottom line, however, is that the codes coming out of the IR emitter are now different.
I'm glad you found a solution. I was quoting MSRP on the Pronto. Now, you have to program it. Out of all the remotes I have programmed, in my opinion, the pronto is the quirkest. Sometimes you upload the program and the pronto locks up. Sometimes it looses IR commands when you upload. I've done Prontos in a few hours, with macros, and not had any problems. Then, a few weeks later, you come back to tweek something, and the remote starts acting weird. I'm at a loose to explain why it does this. And, Pronto tech support is the worst. Anyway, I hope your programming goes smooth. I suggest you use www.remotecentral.com for reference; lots of tips but be careful of download other peoples programs; some can be a nightmare.
By the way, I've used remotes from Lexicon, crestron, apex, theatermaster, rotel, denon, pronto/marantz and harmony. Of all these remotes the Lexicon and crestron are the easiest to program. Currently I am using the Harmony remote because it has lots of hard buttons. I hate to have to look down, at a touch screen, to find a button. I just don't like adverting my eyes from the on screen action.
I agree with Prpixel. Programming a pronto isn't fun. Remote central works. Anthem actually had some pre-programmed stuff. I ended up getting a $100 one-for-all and am much happier!
Programming a pronto can be nit-picky and time consuming, but its not all *that* hard... If you want hard, try debugging a 10" airpanel using 802.11b to communicate with a remote computer running Cinemar's MainLobby, which talks to a Slink-E through a serial port server over a ethernet network. Getting IR codes to work for the Slink-E is an exercise in beating your head against a wall.
I am actually glad that they use same frequency, i got a good deal on Arcam CD73 from ebay but didn't come with remote, i had to spend $50 or more to get it, so i tried my Krell S300I integrated amp remote and i was shocked! works great!