What power conditioner will help in my situation?

The only power outlets I have are on the same circuit as the ceiling fan. When I change the fan speed there is a low frequency hum when I turn the fan speed from low to medium etc.
Aside from running a dedicated line, will a power regenerator or conditioner eliminate this?
Personally, I don't think a power conditioner will fix that problem.
Is there no other circuit you can use even if it means running an extension cord from a different outlet in a different room?
Larry's advice is very good, see if you can put it on another circuit, that would be your cheapest fix. If not, a dedicated line would be your second cheapest option. If you cannot do that, you could try buying a power conditioner that uses isolation transformers, like Equi=Tech.
Yes, I agree that trying a long extension cord running to a different room should be the first thing that you should do, at least as an experiment.

But can you clarify what you mean when you say "when I change the fan speed there is a low frequency hum when I turn the fan speed from low to medium etc." Does that mean that the hum occurs only while you are changing the fan speed, and perhaps for a second or so afterwards? Or does it mean that the hum is always present, but is affected in some manner by a change of fan speed? Or does it mean that the hum is not present in "low," but is present at the faster settings?

-- Al
PSAUDIO P10 works well for me with the same problem
I'm glad I have user adjustable electronic switch board with more dosens of combos how to customize outlets and power.
How about a regenerator?
Have a qualified electrician run a dedicated line or two. It really doesn't cost that much to do so. They really do know what they are doing and how to do it. worst case, run on wall wiring in on wall conduit from another circuit (preferrably one not used frequently) to your listening room.

Clean up the line AT the ceiling fan.
If you can get at the wiring above the fan add some ferrite claps on each of the wires.
Two on each would be good.
Then at the wall switch, in the wall, add more.
This will really cut on the electrical feedback.
So you will have less to worry about at the wall socket for your equipment.
I have done this to my refrigerator.

The sort of ferrite which clip on would be easy. i used 1" barrel ferrites placed on the wires and wrapped the frig cord around another.
Also there are small in wall conditioners which fit in a standard AC duplex spot. Maybe you could add one of those to the FAN. And kill the fan problem in the fan part of the circuit. Either in the cieling or at the fan switch.
A very inexpensive alternative is the Machina Dynamica Flying Saucer (a catchy yet uninformative title for this wonderfully efficacious audio accessory) inserted into the unused AC socket right next to the socket into which you insert audio or video component power cord.
Check if an unused AC outlet is built right into the base of the fan itself.
Also, insert the same product into any other unused AC power outlets throughout the listening room with its one shared power line circuit.
One of my listening rooms also shares a line with fluorescent lights, household appliances, ceiling fan.
The best configuration in my system -- after years of experimenting -- is isolation transformer > power conditioner > power regenerator. Nothing else comes even close in terms of sound quality.
Just shut off the fan when listening to your stereo!

I turn off the AC or heat, due to fan noise and circulating air, when I listen.
"I turn off the AC or heat, due to fan noise and circulating air, when I listen."

I guess many of us do. I do, but there is that other problem, "Is your refrigerator running?" which despite the old joke many of us do wish it would runaway considering the disturbing noise these modern refrigerators make. Smaller homes where listening spaces are in close proximity to kitchen is real concern, for unlike AC/heat shut off at thermostat, shutting off a refrigerator full of food invites real risks.
Aperez -

a dedicated line to your system would be the best option.
I had that same problem before I put in a dedicated line. The switch for the ceiling fan was one that allowed you to increase or decrease the fan speed. I changed the switch to a simple on/off switch and the hum disappeared.
Power condition will clean it up but you'll have to choose wisely as most lag the current, which in turn makes the amp work harder and runs hotter.

I ran a dedicated circuit, bought a power conditioner for my audio/video components, and bought an 8' power cord for my amp. End result is power conditioner cleaned up all noise on the audio/video components and the amp running directly off the designated circuit has no noise.

I didn't post what brand conditioner I bought for a reason...it was Chinese built! *lmbo
I wanted to add to my previous post. It would cost effective to replace the ceiling fan with a decent newer model first. You may not have to add anything else to your entertainment system.
Where is the hum coming from ? Amp ? Speakers ? Ceiling fan speed controls can create DC offset on the AC line, and cause some transformers to hum/buzz. This is not a problem a "line conditioner" will solve. A dedicated line also may not provide a cure either, since it will be in parallel with the offending circuit. You need a DC blocker. Emotiva makes one.
Thanks for all your responses. I think I will go the dedicated line route.
To clarify, its not a constant hum, only when I change the fan speed I can hear a low frequency thump in the speaker. I know- don't change the fan speed- Thought maybe a regenerator would work but will look into a dedicated line. Thanks again.
To clarify, its not a constant hum, only when I change the fan speed I can hear a low frequency thump in the speaker.
One of the reasons I asked for clarification of that point is that I don't think we can be totally certain that the means by which the fan or its speed controller is affecting the system is via the power wiring. I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the effect could be occurring as a result of airborne interference (RFI), in which case a dedicated line, as well as power conditioning or regeneration, would not resolve the problem. RFI would of course not be at frequencies that are low enough to be audible, but I don't think we can rule out the possibility that it might cause some circuit in the system to produce a low frequency thump.

So before going to the trouble of having a dedicated line installed, I would repeat the suggestion that was made early in the thread to try running a long extension cord to another room. If that solves the problem, then yes, a dedicated line probably would also.

-- Al
I'd also second the thought that a balanced power conditioner like something from Equi=tech might be able to fix the issue. I'd also call a dealer and get their thouhgts. Cable Company carries a number of brands and has a lending system that I think includes power conditioners (it certainly includes cables and headphones).
Seriously, if one is going to get into this electronics/electrical/audiophile game, then short cuts really don't cut it. The ones that do use short cuts end up paying in the end. As the old saying goes, there ain't no such thing as a free lunch. You don't use permanent cheater plug, you don't permanently lift the ground. You find out where the problem is in your system and you fix it the correct way. In this case as in many. Do it right the first time. 1) run dedicated lines first. This means completely separate hot, neutral and grounds per dedicated lines. Do not share neutrals with other circuits. 2) If hum exist in the system, follow the detailed instructions posted by myself and many others. and trace it back to the offending piece of equipment and either fix it or replace it. As I mentioned earlier, it really doesn't cost much for a qualified electrician to run dedicated lines. They know what they are doing. Some charge based on where you live (stay away from those types). Running dedicated lines is pretty basic. Either from the attic down the wall from the panel or from under the house up the wall, or along the walls. If you have plaster walls (the best) some patching is required, which is pretty easy. If you have drywall, well, drywall is pretty inexpensive to replace. do the dedicated lines anyway. You will hear an immediate improvement. But hum is either equipment based (noisy transformer, internal vibration, etc. or a ground loop.