Vandersteen CS2 Signatures use ear bleeding tweeters, but they run the audio signal through 3 capacitors in series. I am not sure that I would recommend doing that, but adding a solen cap or padding the signal with mills non-inductive wire wound 1 ohm resistors may do the trick. Cables may also help, but when I was having issues, I finally, out of desperation as I never really bought into AC conditioners bought a hospital grade isolation transformer and that cured my problem. Also, for under $100 for SE, and I suspect under $150 for balanced ICs you can get ICs made with Dualund's improved version of Western Electric wires, and I'd be pretty shocked if they don't sound better than your Analysis Plus ICs, but it certainly won't break the bank to find out.
What is the best way to tame a slightly bright speaker?
I know the answer is get a speaker that isn't bright, but I've got a pair of TAD Evolution Ones that I like quite a bit except that the magnesium midrange and beryllium tweeter are just a little bright for me. I'm driving them with a D'Agostino Classic Stereo, which I needed to drive my old speakers but I don't need all that muscle for the TADs (89db sensitivity, 4 ohm impedance {doesn't drop below 4 ohms}) recommended power 50 to 250 watts.
I'd like to get an amp that does voices especially well. I know somebody posted recently that a subwoofer solved his brightness problem and I may look into that at some point. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
I'd like to get an amp that does voices especially well. I know somebody posted recently that a subwoofer solved his brightness problem and I may look into that at some point. Any and all suggestions are welcome.